Bill, you are so right. I am at the age now where I am working with my wife to simplify our lives as we grow closer to retirement. I have quite a few collections including some coins, stamps, comics, toys, and even knives...none of which need any further documentation to enable them to be sold. My magic collection...like everyone's...is different. Without instructions or in some cases provenance or COA's (certificate of authenticity), the value of the prop can be greatly reduced. And you are spot on regarding hoping our families will know how to connect the dots.

Much of my magic is stored in its original packaging with the instructions included. For my older props, which is the majority of my collection, I've organized my instructions in file boxes, in acid free sleeves. They are filed alphabetically by effect title...and Bill is so correct. This system means absolutely zero to anyone not familiar with vintage magic props. I may as well have invented my own language and filed the props using Ozish, my new language that no one will ever be able to understand.

So, I'm thinking I need to numerically pair my instructions with my loose props. I can use small stickers that affix to the back of each prop, and link to instructions labeled with the same number. Simple. And the instructions will stored alphabetically by trick name, but the number of where they are ordered in the file, will be recorded on the back of the prop.

Of course, I realize this plan is based on my current collection, and not taking into concern future purchases which will disrupt the order. So, I'm thinking I may need a sub-category besides the instruction number, e.g. Item 53A.

I'm just riffing here, as I find myself looking at my magic room, which quite literally looks like Dumbledore's office, and wondering how the heck I'm going to have my family make any sense of it? Working that out will be truly magical.

I keep an inventory of all my magic props, gimmicks, DVDS, instructions in a database I wrote using FileMaker Pro.
FMP is cross platform and can be used in both Windows and Macs. I customized it just for my magic collection.
I also use another for my home videos going back to 1979. 80 VHS, 45 - 8 mm tapes and many digital files.

The magic database is an inventory of almost all my stuff and where it is being stored. I have 18 different bins and cases and boxes.
Each item includes which binder the instructions are in or the file path if it’s on a computer or location of DVD.
Also, date of purchase, price, seller, my proficiency with the trick, children or adult, category such as card, silk, levitation, etc.
I store this database on my Mac. But my IPad gets updated automatically when changes or additions are made.
If I make a substantial amount of changes I print it out. Also each box or bin has a printout taped to the outside listing what is in that box.
It’s a lot of time to do this but it works for me.
Besides, I’m retired and have the time..
.

I have a shoebox.

For the ones that will fit, I put them into a binder with clear sheet pages. It's a great way to keep them in good condition and easily accessible.

I have several three-ring 3" binders with instructions in clear protectors. I should have segregated them into various types of effects -- and some are in special show books with instructions in performance order. I continues tis while I had a working copier so I have some dupes for individual shows.

Some instructions have been removed from the binders and put in file boxes ready for sale (if there are instructions) escpecially close-up.

Years ago I used to save everything into a hard drive file -- but the disk went kaput. Thank goodness I have a good memory, except for the exact titles, instructions yes, titles no.

Hard Copies usually go into a binder BUT since I am stuck at home for now I started scanning them and putting them on memory sticks, I am doing them by categories like utilities, gimmicks, type of effect, etc.. I am making two copies as a backup in case one of the sticks should fail

Looks like the page 2 members did not read the page 1 posts. Oh Well, the old saying, "You Can Lead A Horse To Water, But You Can't Make Him Drink"; comes to mind.

Change all your Computer and Back Up mechanical hard drives to SSD drives (Solid State Drives). It is proven that they will outlast any mechanical drive for less money per drive.

I started collecting in the late 1970s. Back then I simply punched holes in whatever instructions there were and put them in report covers.... about 30 to a cover. Of course the instructions for some effects did not lend themselves to having holes punched in them and I simple put them shoeboxes (e.g., booklets... Doug Henning's Twilight effect comes to mind, the instructions were a nice little book). Simplistic I know, but that's what I did way back when... and low and behold, 50 years later, I still have report folders... although the shoebox stuff has been transferred to plastic boxes with snap on lids. And all of it in plastic tubs when not in use. After reading all of the above I think I will attempt to re-marry effects with instructions, which might require more recollection the I can muster. Lots of the old stuff has been untouched for too many years to count.

I have no instructions for any effect I use-they all are in the bin after I have got the basics right, then I create my own routines through live performance.
Been doing this since I was a young lad. waste of time & space for me but if you enjoy that sort of thing then that's great as well.

I have a written record of my specific routines that Ive created and perform in my act, I don't need or keep originals etc.

This is the simple method we have used for decades; it works! (Of course, there's a separate written listing of all the numbers/locations complete with miscellaneous comments where required.)

Julie

I use Evernote:
Name of the trick
Photo of the prop(s)
Scanned copy of the Instructions
This gives me a searchable reference that can also be organized by category and tags to find things easily.

Physical Copies of the instructions go into a box in case they need to go with the prop to a future owner.

I work as ICT-er, so I run a Synology NAS (network attached system ) from my home.
That is a 4 bay 32 TB server which runs backups so another location.
The benefits are, that I can always have acces to my files. ( on my tv, pc, phone, or someone else his tv it makes no difference )

Written instructions, I change to .pdf
instructions by movie I download it, and put them on the nas.
Something's on youtube I download and again on my nas.

All is ordered by category and easily findable and accessible

At a live Paul Daniel Lecture , Paul mentioned the first thing he does is throw away the instructions on any effect he buys or bought as a younger performer,
That way you work the effect for yourself and create an entirely original routine which in my case is exactly what Ive also done for over 25 years. As a Professional Corporate Entertainer All my instructions went straight into the Bin for every effect Ive ever bought, most effects you have seen so know the routine you just put your touch to it all..

I keep all of my printed instructions in a large, indexed, alphabetized 3-ring binder. Nowadays, more and more instructions are available as videos and not printed.

I usually lose them as quickly as possible and them beg people on the internet to send me digital copies of them after I realize I can't do the tricks without them.

If it's a worker, instructions for the most part is useless and are discarded. Those "other" effects trying to make the roster reside in ziploc bags (Thanks Billy McComb). If the effect doesn't make the cut, then it's off to the Magic swap circuit. Having the instructions and all the parts help maintain value.

I have them just tossed in a drawer. But after reading this post, I need to change how I store them.

If they’re printed on 8.5”x11” sheets of paper, then I three-hole-punch ‘em, and throw ‘em into a three-ring binder.

If they’re smaller than that, then I tape ‘em onto a sheet of three-hole-punched paper, and in they go.

Quite often, however, I completely re-write them and print them out myself before notebooking them. I strive to make them no more than one page long, and to make them not just concise but also clear enough for easy re-learning. (If I don’t perform an effect for a long time, I forget how it goes, along with all the subtleties and nuances the original instructions may not have mentioned, so I try to “improve” my written directions to best suit my own needs, quirks and uses.)