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ThunderSqueak Regular user 126 Posts 
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On Mar 3, 2016, Michael Baker wrote: Oh, I wasn't trying to sell you tools ^^ but if you have a pc or mac, 123D is free ( http://www.123dapp.com/design ) and then after you are happy with a design, you can get it printed using 3D hub or one of the other services that are around. I can say from first hand experience that before I received this printer, I couldn't think of uses for it. I used to make everything the old fashioned way, wood and if I needed metal, I would carve the item out of foam and then sand cast it with melted soda cans. Now... it is just too convenient for rapid prototyping of ideas. Anyway, we have gone way off topic of the original post now LOL... Still, I hope someone who has an idea but no idea how to go about making the object reads this and goes "hey, that might work!" and does one of the most magical things of all... turning an idea into a reality. Cheers! |
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts
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Thanks, Jessie. I will play with the program and see if I can make use of it. You've really been a great help and I know you weren't trying to sell me any tools.
I am really fascinated with how deep the rabbit hole goes. It's like the study of magic itself. I've been doing this over 50 years, and the more I learn, the more I realize there is yet to learn. Thanks! ~michael
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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gimpy2 Special user 960 Posts
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Im of the same opinion as Michael. I cant see spending the money to buy the actual printer. Stuff like this never seems to work out in the long run for me. This will show my age....Bought a pin plotter several years ago so I could print full size plans in the office. Never could get the thing to work on a reliable basis. It set in the corner for 20 years until I payed to have it hauled off. experiences like this have made me anti tech, Heck I don't even have a cell phone. However with the ability to design in 3D on free software and have it printed by others there is no downside. It would take some time to learn to use the program but at least you don't have to spend any money to try. Might even be fun.
Gimpy
www.gimpysmagic.com |
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Cliffg37 Inner circle Long Beach, CA 2491 Posts
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Well, I do have a 3D printer, albeit a cheap one. I got it for use with my school's robotics club, for fabricating gears etc. This thread has opened up a new dimension for me. Great stuff. Thanks Jessie!
Magic is like Science,
Both are fun if you do it right! |
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts
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On Mar 4, 2016, gimpy2 wrote: I won't say I'm anti-tech as much as tech-illiterate. My real hesitation is that I know that I need to have more justification before jumping in with any new equipment. Reason #1: There can be a cash outlay, and I have to treat such investments as a business expense. I have enough hobbies. Reason #2: My house is my workspace, and it is small. An electronic device would have to be inside my living quarters, and not in the workshop where it would be subject to brutal temperature fluctuation, sawdust, etc. Reason #3: I have to have a clear plan. I know there are some projects where this would likely be a viable option. I already have a few in mind. I don't want to waste a tree to make a toothpick. In other words, I want to know it would be a resource that I would get maximum use from. I don't want to exhaust those needs before the machine wears out. Workshops are already full of tool that have very limited applications. Reason #4: There are other methods to accomplish what I am thinking a 3D printed might do for me. I simply need to weigh the pros and cons of all options. ---- My curiosity in this field is not diminished in the least. In fact it has been heightened because I now feel like I know more. Knowledge is power and all that, eh??
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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Chris Inner circle lybrary.com 1188 Posts
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Jessie, very cool to see somebody 3D printing magic tricks. One suggestion for your cups. Print them from brass/copper/bronze-fill material. Then they will be much heavier, and you will not need those rings in the middle anymore. Additionally you can polish this material to a pretty good sheen or tarnish it as one would tarnish bronze or copper.
Lybrary.com preserving magic one book at a time.
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ThunderSqueak Regular user 126 Posts
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On Mar 4, 2016, Chris wrote: Yep, though I sort of like the rings, makes for easy grip and looks sort of neat. I was considering having them printed by a company that can print in metals. In other news... someone sniped the Ammar cups and balls book out from under me on ebay >< Now to wait another 10 years for one to show up at a decent price. I know I can buy the ebook, but I prefer hardbound books when possible :/ |
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Chris Inner circle lybrary.com 1188 Posts
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Certainly you can leave the rings. Either way the cups would have a much nicer weight with one of these specialty filaments. I printed last week with them for the first time and the objects are surprisingly heavy. They don't feel like they are made from plastic.
Lybrary.com preserving magic one book at a time.
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ThunderSqueak Regular user 126 Posts
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 I could print them in the wood filament and then stain them ^^ the way they are now, you can stop the print at the top of the rings and put something like sand into the ring, then start the print again. The rings are hollow
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Chris Inner circle lybrary.com 1188 Posts
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The wood filaments do not stain well because the wooden particles are already saturated with plastic. Filling it with sand is an interesting idea. I have to check and see if I can stop my printer and continue from where it left off.
Lybrary.com preserving magic one book at a time.
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ThunderSqueak Regular user 126 Posts
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Yeah, the software I use with my printer (unfortunately it is proprietary to the printer) has a pause function, so I can stop a print, do something, then resume with no issues. I really like that feature and has saved me on several large prints when something goes a bit off. The printer is a cel robox.
With as much interest as this thread got for my first thread, maybe I should start a 3D printing Q&A thread XD |
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George Ledo Magic Café Columnist SF Bay Area 3045 Posts
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Jessie, your post and photos on the acetone vapor bath were awesome. Those striations are one thing that's bothered me about the idea of getting a 3D printer, and now I know a way of making them disappear! Thank you, and welcome to the Café.
That's our departed buddy Burt, aka The Great Burtini, doing his famous Cups and Mice routine
www.georgefledo.net Latest column: "Sorry about the photos in my posts here" |
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ThunderSqueak Regular user 126 Posts
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On Mar 5, 2016, George Ledo wrote: A slightly safer method of doing the vapor bath (remember ABS plastics only) is to use a glass jar or other container that is not reactive to acetone. Then you put some acetone on some cotton balls, and put them in the bottom of the container, place your part on a small wood block ( perhaps on some wax paper) or away from the cotton balls. Then close the lid and wait, best to use a clear container so you can keep an eye on it. It can take 3-8 hours, the sides of the container may fog up a bit as the acetone evaporates off the cotton balls. I recommend again to do this outside to avoid fumes. Then when you are happy with how smooth it is, remove the lid and be careful, the outer layer of the plastic object will be soft, and thin parts may bend over depending how long it was in the vapor. |
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Chris Inner circle lybrary.com 1188 Posts
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The problem with ABS is that it warps easily and releases fumes during printing which are not pleasant. I have printed a lot with ABS in the past, but have for the most part moved to newer materials. One of my favorite is XT-CF20 a co-polymer with carbon fibers added. It is the strongest and mechanically best material I have printed so far and it does not warp a bit. Nylon is also pretty good. I still have to try polycarbonate which I hear is also very good.
Lybrary.com preserving magic one book at a time.
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ThunderSqueak Regular user 126 Posts
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On Mar 5, 2016, Chris wrote: Yep, same, but for the most part many of the newer materials require much harsher chemicals to smooth. This is why I suggested ABS for this purpose. I print things easily with ABS but then my printer has a heated enclosed build chamber, this minimizes warping. Personally I use a lot of PLA or Nylon.
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Chris Inner circle lybrary.com 1188 Posts
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What bed temperatures and enclosure temperatures do you use for ABS?
When I started 3D printing, now more than 10 years ago, I also thought that these ridges and layers are a mayor problem. But later I realized that in most cases they are not a problem. For one, the layer thicknesses have come down to a point where you can't see them anymore with the naked eye. The surface takes on a sort of matte finish. But even for layers above 0.1 mm (I typically print with 0.25 mm) the look of the objects is great. It also depends on the material. With the XT-CF20, because it is jet black, the layers are much less visible. The only time where I have found smoothing is necessary is if one wants to achieve clear transparency. For glass clear transparency one needs to use some kind of surface smoothing process.
Lybrary.com preserving magic one book at a time.
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Fazzio New user Brazil 12 Posts
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I love the cups. What about a Chop Cup?
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ThunderSqueak Regular user 126 Posts
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I am currently working on a dedicated chop cup right now. It is on the printer
. I will make a new thread about that later.
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majik_1 New user 95 Posts
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Could these cups be gaffed?
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ThunderSqueak Regular user 126 Posts
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On Mar 8, 2016, majik_1 wrote: yes, but then so can any cup if done right. |
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Posted: Mar 3, 2016 09:30 pm 