I was looking for inexpesive magic tables I could make. Is this a good one? I won't move it around too much so the bulkiness doesn't matter. I was wondering about the top fabric and a black art well for vanishes. Wouldn't you be able to see the "well" even with black velvet as a cover and bag or is there a better material out there to make the well inivisible?

I have built this exact table, and to his specifications. The well is actually very visible to the audience. That is they see things on the table, and then it is gone. The only way this will work is if you are in a auditorium with ALL of the audience below you and looking up.

The rest of the table design is excellent, it folds well, is easy to decorate, and gives you more room to work with than you would imagine. It is also very inexpensive to build. If you are a good painter, or would cover it with fabric, you can use lower quality plywood. I used Birch for mine, not cheap, but nice and easy to work with.

I'll probably cover the sides with inexpensive felt. Whats a good surface material?

I built this table a few years ago in school and I don't like the design very much. As for the well, I never built that into the table. But for the general usability of the table, I wouldn't recommend it very highly.

True, it folds flat and looks good if built correctly, but it is the most unstable table I have ever worked on. The reason for this is that it is shaped like a triangle at the base and this doesn't hold well for any force applied diagonally to the table top. If you can add a fourth point of contact and support to the floor or if you are just using the table to display or hold something, then it could work for you. As for a working table for a performance, I don't recommend it.

Cheers,

Cameron Fisk

I, too, made this and found it to be unstable. However, the BA well was excellent; I used it for a bottle vanish and it killed. Still, I think you should consider something square or rectangular.

I built a table that is simular to the table that Durane Lafflin uses with use shows. I got the idea from his video Greater Gospel Magic. He had a good section on using tables, what to look for in tables, and how to work around a table. I recommend the video set even if you do not do gospel magic. The table is an open top table, and I have two boards over the table to cover it in case I need to sit anything on the table.


Lance

As far as the Black Art well and material for the top. Re-read the instructions. It says in the book to use Velvet material. Then if you look at page 385 illustration H you will see how to conceal the Well.

Velvet absorbs light better then felt. The bright ribbon such as yellow maked the well disappear even at close range, say 6 feet or so.

The main problem I had with this table is it is quite small.

Someday I might take the design and make it a bit bigger by increasing the dimensions prportionately.

Also, it has to sit on a flat surface.

I built the same table, but instead of the open black art well I installed a spring loaded trap door that I operate by a foot pedel behind the table. Works great.

I built mine as the book instructs, added a base p[late, and some hook/eye bolts with a mini bungee to keep things in place and tight, I find it very stable with the bungee holding the mini shelf to the base, and the hooks holding the shelf into the upright!
Black Felt covering glued on the top, with a black velvet top cover for use, wtih 4 inch black bullion fringe (the thick upholstery stuff, not the swishy light flapper dress stuff)It lays on like a table cloth with a small bit for the BA that drops into the rear to make a smooth transition on the well. A servante catch to the rear, and I am all set!
The upright is painted with flat black borders and a red and yellow line pattern, and flat black for the base.
Fast and easy to make, minimal tools needed, the paint took the longest, patience between coats!
k

Just a suggestion - try triple velvet fabric - it is the best thing for black art. Not heard of it - try it and you will never look back.

JCPENNY
Simply Magic

I would love to see photos if the spring loaded trapdoor. and of the base because I'm looking to build a new table. like Mark Wilson's but 3 sided not 2. with a built in trunk and draw and shelf as well as black art well or trap door and a flip up or down mirror hidden.

Hello, speaking of magic folding table, have you ever guys heard mikame magic table? actually we have the table buit on our workshop, who knows you guys interested, please do not hessitate to contact me..if you guys happen to have extra time to visit my magic store here, would be glad to hear your comment..PS:sorry for the bad english

Mark's table should work fine. Keep the hooks & eyes tight so they hold the top on securely and be sure to add the shelf for stability. As suggested above, use Black Triple Velvet for the top and well and use a pattern of bright colored ribbon to camouflage the opening. Painting the base in bright colours will help to further disguise the well by distracting the eye.

If you want to research a variety of tables, look into "The Table Book" and "The Table Book II" By Gene Gloye and Jay Marshall, published by Ireland Magic Co. or Magic Inc. depending on the printing.

Just realized this post thead is 6 years old. Oh well. At least the information is still good.

I just saw some of the tables that Mike, a fellow magish here on the Café' makes himself and they are GREAT! You can get ahold of him here, he goes by "The Magic Ref"

My father made one of these for me when I first went pro 10 years ago. I used it weekly for 5 years. It is some what easy to knock over if you are not careful. I still have mine. I will probably keep it forever. It meant so much to me when he made it.

Edd

I made the Mark Wilson table following the instructions in the book. I think it turned out pretty good. I made two tops, one with the BA well and one without. I used a bright yellow tape around the edge of both tops, and strips of the tape to disguise the well. I think you are get pretty close to the well without seeing it, though I haven't incorporated it into my show yet. I like the idea of adding a base, I think I'll do that to give it more stability.

My only complaint about the table is that there is hardly any room on the shelves to put props. The shelves are small and fill up really quickly. I ended up using a card table to hold the props for the show, I have it off to one side. I will eventually build a larger table with three sides, using the same construction ideas of the Wilson table, keeping it simple and easy to set up and tear down.

I was also thinking of building another table like the one I already have, and using the two small tables on each side of the stage with the large on in the middle. But then I would be dragging three tables around, and I don't know if I want to do that or not. One last comment about the triangular Wilson table, I think it is nice for a fast set-up and tear-down, almost like a portable close-up table, in the right setting.

I think the Mark Wilson table design is good as long as you understand how it is intended. Because it lacks room, it cannot be considered a main working table, except for very small acts. It is not the same as say, a niteclub or suitcase table. I would not consider doing an entire show from one.

It does however, make an excellent side table, or one to work a single routine from. You may have to carry around some extra equipment, but the added eye candy really adds to the audience's impression of your show. Study the older acts that would have used perhaps the Thayer or P&L tables. A couple of side tables added to an act can make your show look a lot bigger. If you don't want them onstage the entire time, maybe you can work with an assistant who can move them on and off easily, bringing the necessary props out as they are needed. This can often look better than you digging around inside a single table filled with the props for 8 or 10 different tricks.

Use the basic structural design as a starting point to give your show a special or personalized look. Don't overlook the fact that you can really play with the visual design on these things. They are so inexpensive to make that you can customize a special table for the client you are working for. The basic table should only cost you 20 or 30 bucks to make. I would also recommend using pin hinges instead of the hook and eye hardware. The advantage of the hook and eye is that they can't get lost, but they are not the greatest for a good, tight attachment. Make a ziplock bag full of pins made from coat hanger wire, and you'll have extras even if you lose some.

Spend a little extra time, and instead of just rectangular pieces, you can make rabbit tables, dragons, or just about anything else.

I started with this table maybe 10 years ago - made two out of 3/8" plywood.
Had a few accidents and near-misses with kids leaning on the front corners!
I added a 12" flat front piece, and used window latches underneath to secure the top.
My next step is to mount a base onto a hand truck and secure this table to the truck.
Fold the sides into the 12" and strap shut with the top on the side, and I'm packed.
All my stuff fits inside in 12x12 boxes.
Roll it in, open up and secure the top, and attach the table cloth that hide the hand truck.

Ed