Planning to convert this heavy cardboard storage case purchased on sale at a craft store into a prop carrying case with trap. I'm looking at Hoffmann's description in Later Magic pp. 31,2.

Attached is a photo of the case from the top (with its harvest themed quotes) and a swatch of Mondrian styled art paper with which I intend to cover the top. The black lines will, of course, be at the edge of the trap to camouflage it.

Any sage feedback from experienced practitioners regarding my outline below, before I begin is, as always, appreciated!

I plan to paint the interior black (and add partitions inside to sort props and isolate the trap capture compartment on the inside). I am wondering whether the light blue Mondrian paper is a suitable choice as the light blue is high contrast to a black interior. I did note that Hoffmann has the trap's hinge away from the spectators. In this case any brief accidental flash of the open trap will still present mainly the flap to view (rather than a gaping black interior) with, in my case, the blue Mondrian pattern -- and should be less noticeable.

The trap's side sizes will be between 2 1/4" and 2 3/4" as that is the distance between the black lines in the pattern. The trap can be square or rectangular according to the lines I decide to cut on.

I plan to construct the trap mechanism exactly as described in Later Magic.

If anything here raises "red flags" or things not to do I would appreciate a heads up!

As one last note, the surface of the case is 11" deep by 16" wide -- that will make a rather smallish table if I decide to put it on a stand.

TIA

Click here to view attached image.

It is nice to see something different than the black with gold grid that most everyone seems to do. I think it would good to have some of the art paper on a portion of the inside trap that faces the audience. Then they wouldn’t see the stark contrast of black with the art paper. The trick will be protecting the art paper from peeling off or getting worn. I would suggest finishing over the paper with a polyurethane as it would make the paper a bit more “slippery” as well. You could cut three sides of the top paper and fold down the side going into the trap to help keep it as one piece. Then cut a separate piece for the trap door.

Hoffmann suggested using a cigar box (with tr*p) because it was then a common thing for a magician to have lying around on his table. With the decrease in smoking cigars, it is no longer as useful as it once was. However, in Spellbinder's "Visible Invisible Well" as described in The Wizards' Journal #9, he explores the uses of other types of objects that you might want to have on your table such as a napkin holder, etc.

Your photo does not make any sense to me, are you only showing the top material? For magic shows, that is the about the average size of a magic tabletop, attached to a tripod stand. What concerns me is, you are not making the trap for a particular solution to a magic effect. Just making something with no purpose is a lost cause. Most magic wells are to aid in the vanish or exchange of a prop, like a glass, bottle, clock, etc..

Wells are suppose to be invisible to the spectators if they see the top of the table. If a glass is dropped in the well, they will see your pattern is not complete or matching the rest of the material on the tabletop.

Look at how it will be used before starting a project. You need a specific purpose for a prop before making anything.

Bill,
I know you're just trying be helpful, and maybe you've never made something just to try it out. But for many of us its not the end....Its getting there and trying. I am also making a box with t**p like doc. All from scratch. I started it a year ago, got busy and docs topic inspired me to get back to finishing it. I have no specific trick in mind but its good to learn and if someone comes to me wanting a box with a trap or I come up with a trick that needs one, I will have perfected it. Much like making a scaled model of something larger. You can work out the bugs and in the end you have something to be proud of.

Well, I've successfully finished my card change box so it is back to the finishing the prop suitcase with tr*p.

For point of reference here is the section in Hoffmann's Later Magic -- which shows the plan I'm following. The section is on pp. 31,32

https://archive.org/details/latermagic00hoff

I'll post photos of progress soon. The tr*p fl*p mechanism is already assembled. The suitcase decoupaged and the tr*p cut out of the suitcase.

I always have several DIYs going and this case has been on hold for a few weeks. Finally finished it. Here is the fully gimmicked top of the suitcase. It is camouflaged fairly well I think!

The tr*p fl*p is in the center towards the top in the photo. It was place there as the cardboard top had a slight concavity and placing it forward put it in an area where the curvature was not as severe.

Now that it is finished it is perfect for vanishing small objects! Yay.

My two suggestions to anyone following my lead is to
(1) get the large luggage storage chest -- mainly for the extra depth. I used the medium, the large size is typically 20 x 13 x 6 inches.
(2) To solve the concavity of the top, it may be worth the time to cut off the cardboard top and replace it with a sheet of craft plywood -- especially for the larger luggage case.

Here is a photo of the exterior.

Click here to view attached image.

Here is the interior showing the tr*p mechanism and the well lined with a sponge bottom. I need to add partitions to hold my other props secure.

Click here to view attached image.

That’s inspiring! Thanks for sharing your process, photos and improvements.