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JamesinLA![]() Inner circle Los Angeles 3400 Posts ![]() |
I finished the suitcase table I was building, and, while it's perfectly designed for what I wanted (it's the right height for me and it has a drawer on real drawer pulls) I've decided that it also came out too heavy. So I've decided to redesign and slim down the weight.
My question is, does anyone know if the Joe Lefler tables are made of 3/8 inch plywood or 1/4 inch plywood? I think they're 3/8 aren't they? Thanks much. Jim
Oh, my friend we're older but no wiser, for in our hearts the dreams are still the same...
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ClintonMagus![]() Inner circle Southwestern Southeast 3997 Posts ![]() |
Jim,
Per this website it is 3/8", assuming you are talking about the Suitcase Table. Quarter-inch plywood is probably a little thin for this application. http://www.hamptonridge.com/product_page......ble.html Amos McCormick
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Michael Messing![]() Inner circle Knoxville, TN 1817 Posts ![]() |
Yes, his table is made of 3/8" plywood.
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MAGICBYTIM![]() Special user Louisiana 531 Posts ![]() |
Jim,
Unless your table is small the 1/4" plywood will be very weak. How heavy did your table turn out. I made mine out of 1/2". It is heavy but extremely sturdy and I do not mind the weight because the table does exactly what I need it to do. Tim |
JamesinLA![]() Inner circle Los Angeles 3400 Posts ![]() |
Thanks, guys.
Tim, I actually did make mine out of 3/8 baltic birch, but I overbuilt it in the way I joined the pieces together. I used 3/4 square stock in all the corners, sort of as gussets. I also used 1x3s in the base to strengthen the wheel attachments. I also have a drawer that slides on a metal drawer pull, which is adding its own weight to the overall. It is quite strong. But, when I made the drawer, I discovered that just by using rabbit joints in the 3/8 ply made a very strong joint and drawer box, and I think that is all that would be needed for the entire table. So that's basicly what I was thinking of doing. This would eliminate all the weight of those 3/4 inch gussests at every joint. Jim
Oh, my friend we're older but no wiser, for in our hearts the dreams are still the same...
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MAGICBYTIM![]() Special user Louisiana 531 Posts ![]() |
Jim,
I see now how you built the table. I used 1/2" plywood and did not add any additional supports. I glued and nailed all the pieces together. So far this has worked. I also did the same with my two drawers. I was going to use 3/8" birch but the hardware store was out and I would have had to wait another week to get started. I think if you cut out the gussets and 1x3's you will reduce the weight. I think mine weighs about 40 pounds. That is heavy but it is nice to have a table that has the features I needed. Good luck with your rebuild. Tim |
George Ledo![]() Magic Café Columnist SF Bay Area 3045 Posts ![]() |
You can also combine the ply -- using, say, 1/2" for the parts that take stress, and 1/4" for the rest. This way you can glue/nail directly into the thicker ply for a strong joint, but still keep down the weight. The secret to a strong box is to glue and clamp each joint so you get a firm wood-to-wood connection, instead of a wood-to-glue-to-wood. I've built a number of boxes this way for theatrical purposes, and they hold up very well.
Something else you can do is use 1/2 x 3/4 pine molding instead of 3/4 x 3/4. Applied on edge, it's almost as strong as the 3/4" square material, but noticeably lighter. Good luck, and keep us posted!
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Bill Hegbli![]() Eternal Order Fort Wayne, Indiana 22797 Posts ![]() |
I have built several tables like the Merv Taylor table and Abbott's NiteClub table.
You use 3/8" ply on the sides and 1/4" on the front and bottom. This helps on the weight. |