Been working on a new item the last few weeks. I don't spray paint many things as most things I do are natural woods.Decided to go with an ivory color paint on elements of this prop. I have had great luck with Krylon over a basic primer in the past. I recently moved to a small town and you cant find the primer or Krylon paint here. So I went with what they had, Valspar primer and finish coat in one. I had planed on doing a primer coat but when I realised I had picked up a can of finish coat instead of primer I decided to give the all in one a try. I should have known better. The directions say you can put layer over layer imediately. The paint has a super fine mist that keeps it drip free but you don't get much coverage. I was only trying to cover about 2 sq. feet but after most of the can was gone the bare wood was still showing. After 4 days the finish is still sticky. I guess my only choice is to remake the parts and drive an hour away for the paint I am used to. I think Valspar all in one is just one more "new and improved" things that I don't like.

Hey Gimpy,

Valspar does stay sticky for quite a while, especially if you lay it on thick.

Sanding sealer is your friend. Ace brand oil-based is my choice.

Can you find Rustoleum American Accents? (2X ultra) They have great primer in gray, rust, black and white. It's the only primer I use now.

Both of these used ahead of the color coat will improve your finishes 1000%. In most cases, you can cut your color consumption down to 2 light coats, 3 at the most. I've been able to use anything on top of it, including Valspar. Another tip on Valspar is to use satin instead of gloss if you have a choice. For some reason, it doesn't remain as sticky as gloss does, and you can use clear gloss over that (Rustoleum 2X clear is still the best IMO). Valspar gloss will eventually dry, but it will usually take several weeks. When I use it, I paint and forget about that project for a long time. It's really the only way, and the sacrifice made for their unique color palette. The old adage says, "Good things come to those who wait." That's hard to do in our microwave society. Customers often want things yesterday, and getting paid is nicer without long delays, too.

I should mention at this point that wood choice will make a difference in how much wood grain shows. I think you know this, though. Baltic Birch is the choice for smooth surfaces, but even it can have some funky batches. Grain filler can be used if a glass-like substrate is required and desired.

One last tip... if you use Rustoleum 2X color coats, do not apply ANYTHING on top of it except 2X clear coats, or other 2X color coats. Try to break this rule and you will unleash demons from hell that will puke all over your work.

I understand about moving from a large city to a smaller one. You lose a lot of local resources.

~michael

Thanks Michael,

This valspar is the satin so I hope it drys soon. The stuff did do fine on the baltic birch. I had trouble with some blocks made of pine. I think I will look around and see if I can find some of the types here local. I need to stick with something local as I don't need to be running back to Springfield everytime I need paint.

Side note. My old shop and home I had for 23 years is being torn down today not sure how I will react when I see it gone.

Gimpy

Without something to seal the grain, you might as well try to paint a sponge and to paint pine. Several coats of Sanding sealer would likely be needed, but a simpler route would be to select a different wood. End grains are something else. I have even had to resort to coating with CA glue to truly lock up all the pores on end grain.

I know you don't want to drive back and forth all the time, but you might need to do what I did for wood supply. My main supplier is very close to here. But, when I was living in Alabama, that was 650 miles one way. So, when I'd come to visit family a couple times a year, I'd load up the van with as much as I could manage. You might need to make a serious shopping list, like the country folks have to do, and stock up all at once.

What are they doing with the old property?

Well not exactly sure these blocks are pine. Im outsourcing for them and the website says they are pine but they are pretty heavy and the grain dosent look like pine.

The old farm hasnt sold yet but the house and shop set where the road needs to go for development. I think the property will sell quicker with the buildings removed.

I have the same issue with blocks, regardless of the type of wood. The end grains take special treatment, or painting becomes a real chore.

I'm sure selling the old farm will be a bittersweet moment.

BTW - I just noticed your post count. EEK! LOL!

Gimpy.
You could try using a bit of shellac to seal the timber.
It's a hard polish, so any kind of top coat would be ok to apply, so long as it's abraded.
If you don't have any shellac, Knotting, is more or less the same. Do a sample and see how you go.
Ray.
P.S. That post count needs breaking fast.

I think the blocks are a type of birch. I have had them setting in a box for years. I looked back at the website I bought them at and they sell birch and pine. They recomend the pine for painting don't know why. May order both types and see what works better.

I think I may keep that post count till Haloweeen.

DOHHHHHH!