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The Magic Cafe Forum Index :: The workshop :: Balsa vs Basswood (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

Good to here.
MuleePete
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OK, I want to play around with a floating table of my own design. That is why I am coming to this part of the Café. Please don't rip my head off. I just want to get other builders opions of these two woods.
I am not asking for info on gimmicks, devices, methods......just about a light weight wood to make an old hall/telephone table.
Thank you for considering.
MuleePete
raywitko
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western Pa
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You can get different grades of balsa. It is lighter than basswood. Balsa breaks easier but it is the way to go.
Ray
Sometimes it seems there are more than one of me.

Tabman USA
magicdmv
email me at [email]fursclass@magicdmv.com[/email]
MuleePete
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Thanks Ray, that is what I thought. I am playing with finishes like verothane or polly in layers to give it a bit of stiffness. Also coating it with shoe polish then heating it up to soak into the grain. I've done that to leather, easier to control the bleeding, and polishes very nicely.

MP
ClintonMagus
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Generally, I have found that the darker the balsa grain, the harder the wood, thus more resistance to denting.

Basswood would not make a good floating table material.
Things are more like they are today than they've ever been before...
MuleePete
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Now that is a good tip when talking to the suppliers.

Thanks CM

MP
MuleePete
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Basswood for the table base to help weight the CG at the base. One design is tri leg, the other is pedestal. The basswood would also lend itself to a carved or claw style, or round base.

MP
Bill Hegbli
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Fort Wayne, Indiana
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I would use "Gatorboard". It is styofoam core with wood veneer on each side, you just have to apply veneer on the exposed ends. This is really light material and is sold in 4'x8' sheets. I think if I remember correctly it comes in 3/4" and other thicknesses as well.
raywitko
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Whatever style you go with, make everything hollow. Balsa can be found here. http://www.specializedbalsa.com/ I've stained balsa and then sealed it with a sandable sealer. I sealed it twice sanding it in between. Then I sprayed it with a clear satin lacquer.
Ray
Sometimes it seems there are more than one of me.

Tabman USA
magicdmv
email me at [email]fursclass@magicdmv.com[/email]
MuleePete
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I was so centered on "wood", I forgot about good old polystyrene and family. Looks like I'll be fabricating in a couple of materials.

Thanks for the site Ray. I've givin it the once over and will go back and gleen it better.

THANK YOU for the posts! It has been VERY informative and helpful. I appciate the courtesy in your responces.

MP
abrell
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It have found it absolutely necessary to protect the floating table during transport. I do not like the method of dissassembling all props and to store them in small pieces. At the time I am building a bar table where the floating table fits into a perfect fitting compartment in one piece. This compartment has a felt lining. So the surface is protected during transport. The bar table itself is sturdy enough to protect the floating table from all physical forces and of course stores a complete act.
MuleePete
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One piece construction. Another great point.

My SideKick II table from Viking gets assembled and disassembled quite a bit and as sturdy as it is, it does get knocked a bit.

Thanks for the input abrell!

MP
Magic_Man101
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Ballsawood all the way its way lighter
tabman
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What kind of glue do you plan on using??? What thickness stock??

Good luck with it.
...Your professional woodworking and "tender" loving care in the products you make, make the wait worthwhile. Thanks for all you do...

http://Sefalaljia.com
gaddy
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Thanks for the gatorboard tip! -does the veneer come in different woodgrain designs as well? I didn't see any in my 1st google search...
*due to the editorial policies here, words on this site attributed to me cannot necessarily be held to be my own.*
MuleePete
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Tabman, I am PMing you.

Love your work on Sefalajia.

MP
Jeff Dial
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Quote:
On 2010-09-29 09:42, wmhegbli wrote:
I would use "Gatorboard". It is styofoam core with wood veneer on each side, you just have to apply veneer on the exposed ends. This is really light material and is sold in 4'x8' sheets. I think if I remember correctly it comes in 3/4" and other thicknesses as well.


Do you have a source or link for wood veneer Gatorboard? I keep coming up with white, black, and "natural" (brown) facing. Thanks.
"Think our brains must be too highly trained, Majikthise" HHGG
tristanmagic
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MuleePete,

I hope you are not building the Losander version of the floating table as this is not in public domain! If you are building the classic version, that sticks to your hand, then go ahead
If not please respect the creator!
MuleePete
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Having never seen the style of floating table you speak of, I cannot tell you if it is or not.
I have my own thoughts for this effect and sought information about materials only.
I am not seeking arugument, I am only creating my own vision.

MP
David P
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Boston via Michigan
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Balsa is a great material. I once flew indoor flying airplane models at a club that met in a gym at MIT. The planes were made of balsa wood with membranes of tissue paper, condenser paper, micro film. There were different classes. The world class micro film planes could stay aloft one hour!!! The motor was Pireli rubber and it was all about duration. The lighter the plane (assuming one had a good design),the longer the flight duration.My balsa suppliers were "Indoor Model Supply" and "Micro x". They have web sites. The balsa was rated by density and grain. It would seem to me that a creative individual might make the most incredible floating table by studying this type of model airplane construction. The operative is "strong and light".