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B Hackler Special user 778 Posts 
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Has anyone turned a dry erase board into a chalk board using the chalk board paint? I am currently using a dry erase board in the show but the glare from the lights makes the board to where you can't read it. I have looked for the right size chalk board and I either find one to big or to small. I have a dry erase board I've been using and it would be the right size so I thought about using chalk board paint on it to turn it into a chalk board. I know I should take the time and bulid one out of wood and paint it using the chalk board paint but in my opinion if the dry erase board will work it would be lighter. Any help or ideas would be great.
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts
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We've used the chalkboard paint here at the house, and it seems to do what it's supposed to... we have a chalkboard that you can write on and erase again. It's easier to wash with a wet cloth, though.
To paint on the whiteboard, you might want to rough the surface lightly, and if the paint suggests a primer, that may be in order. I'd try the paint on a small cheap whiteboard first before attacking your show prop.
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
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PCoreyB Regular user 139 Posts
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I've used chalkboard paint on many occasions and it's great. Like Michael said, definitely experiment...I'd have concerns about painting on the slick surface of a marker board. Let us know how it turns out.
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Thomas Wayne Inner circle Alaska 1977 Posts
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I'm always surprised when the subject of painting a smooth, flat plastic (or plastic coated) surface comes up and no one knows the following trick. It's a solution I've used forever, but I've never seen anyone else suggest it, so it must be my own well-kept secret.
Most slick surfaces do not paint well; not only is dry erase board no exception, even if you rough it up and prime it you may have a problem getting paint to reliably adhere. However, aggressively sticky tape will grab these surfaces very well. So I've used non-slick paper with a permanent adhesive backing to cover the surface first, then primed and painted as if it were a smooth wooden board. Some considerations: 1) The paper layer will add to the overall thickness of the material, so if an exact finished thickness matters this method probably won't work for you; 2) The edges of the finished board may be vulnerable to peeling if there is repeated contact with some other component; 3) You should avoid a solvent-based primer, as this can leech through the paper surface and weaken or loosen the adhesive. If your surface is smaller than 8 x 10 you can used printable labels (permanent), which work great. For larger areas you may have to buy the paper from an industrial paper supply house. One great advantage to this technique is that you can later restore the surface to its original smooth finish by using a solvent to dissolve the paper's adhesive - the paper/primer/paint layer will just peel right off. TW
MOST magicians: "Here's a quarter, it's gone, you're an idiot, it's back, you're a jerk, show's over." Jerry Seinfeld
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B Hackler Special user 778 Posts
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Thanks for thr help.
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Magnus Eisengrim Inner circle Sulla placed heads on 1053 Posts
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Quote:
On 2010-03-30 20:47, Thomas Wayne wrote: That's very clever; thank you Thomas. Like most good ideas, it seems so obvious after you've read it. John
The blood-dimmed tide is loosed, and everywhere
The ceremony of innocence is drowned; The best lack all conviction, while the worst Are full of passionate intensity.--Yeats |
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Michael Baker Eternal Order Near a river in the Midwest 11172 Posts
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Homemade MDO... (slapping forehead vigorously).
~michael baker
The Magic Company |
Posted: Mar 30, 2010 05:01 pm 