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The Magic Cafe Forum Index :: The workshop :: Knock down fittings (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

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magicjohn2278
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Special user
Isle of Man UK
544 Posts

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I'm just about to complete a sub trunk, it's non-inspectable and made to break down for transport and storage.

I was planning to use loose pin hinges inside to keep it together, they are quick and convenient but they look dreadful (although no-one sees them!).

I've been put off using "KD fittings" - the two plastic blocks held together with a screw, having seen a prop that used them that virtually needed rebuilding as most of the fittings had broken.

I've been scouring the internet looking for a neater alternative
(these - http://unico.uk.com/catalog/product/846 looked interesting but have the obvious problem that if someone tries to lift the trunk in the wrong place, it could fall apart!)

Does anyone have any suggestions?
Chance
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Inner circle
1385 Posts

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I don't have a problem with those fittings.

Take note of where the fitting overlaps. Drill & Tap the overlap of each fitting for a 1/4" machine screw. That should take care of any vibration or "accidents".
Michael Baker
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Eternal Order
Near a river in the Midwest
11172 Posts

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I built my first Sub Trunk using perforated angle iron along the bottom and two sides of the front and back pieces. These were on the inside. Carriage bolts and wing nuts held it all together. This did require having loose hardware to keep up with, but it did its job well.
~michael baker
The Magic Company
ClintonMagus
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Inner circle
Southwestern Southeast
3997 Posts

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I used aluminum angle in the corners, permanently attached to one side, with holes drilled to accept machine screws which were then fastened into T-nuts on the adjacent side. I eliminated the wing nuts, simply to remove one possibility of escape from the minds of the audience.
Things are more like they are today than they've ever been before...
Pete Biro
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1933 - 2018
18558 Posts

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I travelled with a show using pin hinges and never had any problems.
STAY TOONED... @ www.pete-biro.com
kenb123
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Parker,CO
66 Posts

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If you have the classic wooden crate look, then how I built mine was the front and back has a 2x2 in each corner attached to it, and another running across the bottom. Then the sides bolt to the front and back. Same thing for the bottom.
kenb123
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Parker,CO
66 Posts

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If you have the classic wooden crate look, then how I built mine was the front and back has a 2x2 in each corner attached to it, and another running across the bottom. Then the sides bolt to the front and back. Same thing for the bottom.
ClintonMagus
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Inner circle
Southwestern Southeast
3997 Posts

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Look here (third item down):

http://tinyurl.com/lgwlhw
Things are more like they are today than they've ever been before...
IDOTRIX
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Elite user
Darien,il
467 Posts

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I've built a couple of trunks with the 4th one down. http://tinyurl.com/lgwlhw
tabman
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Inner circle
USA
5946 Posts

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Quote:
On 2009-08-25 12:40, Pete Biro wrote:
I travelled with a show using pin hinges and never had any problems.


That's what I used for Amazing Johnathan and Kozak's Vanishing Sub-trunk. In fact you did the basic design. I substituted the pins for coathanger wire with a little bend in it to lock them in.
...Your professional woodworking and "tender" loving care in the products you make, make the wait worthwhile. Thanks for all you do...

http://Sefalaljia.com
Ray Pierce
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Inner circle
Los Angeles, CA
2604 Posts

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Quote:
On 2009-08-25 20:26, tabman wrote:
I substituted the pins for coathanger wire with a little bend in it to lock them in.


I have MANY props with pin hinges and they all have hanger wire pins which I can make up out of coat hangers if I'm on the road and short some pins. The props come apart without tools and can be in the case and loaded in minutes. Unfortunately, because of how physical I am with our trunk in our particular routine, I stayed away from pin hinges.

My trunk originally came with wing nuts on tiny exposed bolts and they always got caught on the fabric so when I refurbished it I installed aluminum angles with hex bolts and nuts all around. Most of the time it travels together with a few things inside so it's just sturdier with the angle supports. The 2x2 internal frame is good as well and more organic to the prop but takes up a little more space. It just depends on the routine.
Ray Pierce
keithmagic
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Veteran user
375 Posts

Profile of keithmagic
Log onto Magic Inc.'s site, or call Denny and Lee's and order Jim Sommers "Build Your Own Illusions book..."

In it, read about, and then build a set of BLACKSTONE HINGES! Loose pin style hinges with no pins to lose - and WAY stronger/sturdier.

I ended up making a bunch because I know all of my future props that need to break down will be retro-fitted!

Keith
Author of "The Festival Entertainer" The Professional Entertainer's Guide to Booking and Working Outdoor Fairs, Festivals, and Events.
Available at http://www.howtobookfestivals.com