Okay, I've been woodworking for almost forty years, and there's something I haven't figured out - how thick a vertical cut can you successfully make using a saber saw without it "wandering" off vertical? I need to cut two identical openings in two sheets of ½" plywood. Ideally, I want to fasten the two pieces face-to-face so the openings will be identical, but my saber saw blade tends to wander from vertical when the stock is this thick.

I've tried both fine-tooth blades and coarse-tooth blades,fast and slow but I always seem to have the same problem.

Can this be done, or do I need to:

1. cut the pieces separately, or
2. use a router to cut them together?

A jack saw works best on multiple (for cutting stair steps)

Or the largest, thickest blade you can get your hands on. The tolerance of the tool is actually more important then the blade. If you go at a snails pace you can use a flimsy blade. Very expensive jig saws work, cheap ones, never do.

I'm assuming this will be a reciprocating saw as opposed to a jig saw. Both have a habit of veering off coarse.

if the holes have a straight edge I would use a circular saw and clean up the last few inches with the saber


All in all, a Japanese saw might even be better because you can hold it on the back side. Or you can make a metal guide so the saw must take the course you desire.

Your last idea, a router with a guide.... that would be optimal. You can cut a hundred pieces and they'll all be the same.

However if you use the jig saw there is a technique where you angle the blade steeply and make multiple passes before you actually plunge through.

I have a Bosch reciprocating saw, so the quality's there. I only have to make one set of parts, but I will probably bite the bullet and make a Masonite guide and use my router collars.

Man, what a GREAT time to have a CNC router!

I have 3. Did I mention there is about a four year learning curve?

Seriously... I've made 70 guides for collets to follow, when I used a router. It's easier then making a mistake and starting over. I still use hand held routers and have 6 porter cables and one Milwaukee and a zip router (worthless) three dremmels but I want to buy that new ocilateing thingie - looks interesting.

Jay (Too many tools and just two hands) Leslie

P.S. I'm not busy on Sat. Come over and I'll do it for you

1800 miles is just a tad far to travel to get some holes cut, although I appreciate the offer!

Next time you visit the Castle, call.

I would second using a Japanese hand saw. Of course a jig as a cutting guide would help. Possibly finding someone with a good band saw, if it is only a couple of cuts they probably won't mind doing it for you, or would do it inexpensively.

How would I use a "jug" as a cutting guide?!?!?! (I know what you meant.) "P

A bandsaw is not the answer, because they are all inside cuts.

But, back to my original question - how thick a cut can be made successfully and accurately with a high-quality saber (reciprocating) saw? I have been experimenting, and the speed of the blade doesn't seem to make much difference. Also, what would make the cut tend to always wander off-line primarily in one direction? I have made sure that the blade is perfectly square to the base.

I guess my answers were not sufficient?

Jay, your answers were GREAT! I'm just curious about at what material, thickness, and blade depth combinations I need to stop considering a saber saw. Is there a rule of thumb or is it pretty much trial-and-error?

BTW, I went out to check the alignment again, and it looks like the footplate might be slightly bent. Several months ago I loaned it (against my better judgment) to a neighbor, and I am wondering whether he might have dropped it. That could explain why the problem is always in one direction. I'll order a new footplate from Bosch and see whether it makes a difference.

The softness and direction of grain have a large impact on how straight you can cut

I'll simplify.

If you use a jigsaw, drill a hole in the corner, Use a guide along the edge and use the largest blade you can get. Use a blade with the smallest kerfs as large kerfs allow the blade room to drift. Tilt the saw and "work" the material. Do not overheat the blade as it will warp. Use an expensive jigsaw AND really adjust the angle of the plate. Test cut - Cut along the right side of a board then along the left and THAT will tell you if the blade is true and square.

or

Do it the easy way. A half horse power router with a plunge cut and a guide. You will be more accurate AND you can step it down for multiple passes. I'd rather make 4 quick passes then one slow pass on material that has a grain. (plastic and metal may be a different approach & hardwood could also have different requirements then plywood)

So we agree, use the router.

You know, I have a Bosch having used a neighbor's many years ago after only having a Black and Decker. What a difference I thought. I bought the Bosch quite a number of years ago and have had the same problems you speak of. I would just go to all the trouble of filing, sanding, routing, etc. I too noticed that the foot was a bit askew, but it is manufactured that way, you know, how the tongue and groove locks in the angle? Well I just bought my daughter one and used it and what a difference. It cut straight, thick or thin. Guess what? I had bought a lemon. And what do these senators and economist say about consumer confidence? Yeah, right, they never have their hands on consumer goods like tools besides their Rolex watches and top line leisure items. Buy a new saw, but first, take it out of the box, *** the packaging, inspect the foot assembly, and keep looking until you find a good one. Then ask to try it out. Hey, for $200 plus, why not? Do they want the sale or not! Go to another store, if not. We keep buying their junk, it keeps getting worse. Seems like a whole lot of snake oil to me!

Dr. Solar

As a professional woodworker, I will second Jay's advice. A jigsaw will always wander, no matter how careful you try to be. It takes very little time to make a jig for the router - I usually just glue together 4 strips to make a rectangular opening. You can either use a pattern bit (a straight bit with a bearing) or a bushing. The pattern bit is easier because you don't have to factor in the offset - just make the template the exact size of the opening you want. This will give you a perfect edge, ultimately saving you time sanding and filling. If you need the corners square, a handsaw will easily (and accurately, if you are careful) clean up the corners. You can even use the template as a guide for the saw. Good luck -

Bill