Hello this is my first attempt at making a subtrunk.

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee275/spong8/IMG_1588.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee275/spong8/IMG_1598.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee275/spong8/IMG_1603.jpg

Looking good!

Looks very well built.
Nice job.
Bob.

Just a thought, those chains look very long...

Murphys Law might come into play here... sometime, something (a foot, or a part of a costume, or hair) may get caught or tangled up in the chains ( on the way in or out).

Think about moving the chains to make them shorter... otherwise... looks real good!

scott

Good observation, one could cover them with a sown cloth tube or replace them with rope or cord.

Looks good to me, but I'd agree about the chain. How's it working for you?

The chain needs to be several inches shorter because, you will lean into the open trunk, to tie or untie the bag (from the side), you will (100 percent possibility) lean against the chain causing the lid to travel shut. By shortening the chain and moving the anchors closer to the hinge you will avoid a nasty bump on the head. The alternative is to lean in the box, to tie and untie the bag from the front, which exposes your back and hides the action.

I would also allow the lid to lean back 15 degrees, in total. (I would put a stronger chain on) Occasionally an assistant, or yourself may shake the box or bump the lid while performing. By leaning the lid back, keeping same open - in the bias - it won't swing closed by inertia. Again... this will avoid a nasty bump on the head.

Occasionally, a stage may not be level. By leaning the lid back you will compensate.

ALSO by leaning the lid back....... any light from behind will not make a straight path, through the slats, into the eyes of the audience...... making them wonder "why there are gaps in the wood".

This box looks like it comes apart. In that case, replace the hinge pins with a solid rod that is bent over on the end. This will speed-up assembly and disassembly.
.

I would recommend:

...Heavier chains (but not too heavy.) But I would recommend welded oval links regardless.
...The chain lower anchor point should be much closer to the rear of the box.
...I'd cover the chains to eliminate "talk", and to prevent catching on clothing or hair, as mentioned by others.
...The chain anchor points should be "D" rings with square anchor bases, not just small screws like now.
...I second the idea of much better hinges with removable pins for easier take-down.

Consider using something more substantial than door hinges.

I respectably disagree

The door hinge holes have already been made and I'm sure the poster does not want to fill holes.

But many take-a-part illusions use flimsier hinges or smaller hinges, and work just fine,

Is it possible that people are opjecting to the rounded corners? I think that could be the problem.
In that case, switch-out the round corners for square... and change the hinges to chrome. All the other hardware is chrome - - everything should match.

As for an anchor. A hole with a Eye Bolt through it is best - I didn't look at the pictures before, to see the drywall screw - yes - if you toss the lid open it will break the head right off.

Other than that, mister kauaiimagic7301990... sir.... you never realized all the little details.
Your next project will be a ramp for your van.

We didn't see the bag yet? Are you going to use cuffs? What are you doing for a curtain? (that's another post entirely)

Here is the *type* of hinge I would be using (even better if you find them with removable pins):

http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/73-433-strap-hinges.aspx

And here is the chain:

http://fasteners.hardwarestore.com/16-63......684.aspx

Kauai, if you are worried about left over screw holes, simply replace the 2 or 3 affected boards. Simple, easy, and costs less than $10.00.

Looks good, but-

I apologize if I'm wrong on this, but looking at the photos, it appears that you're building this in a high school wood shop or similar place where other people than yourself are present. If so, how are you keeping the method a secret? When I was in high school, everyone wanted to see everyone else's projects, and those were things like shelves and clocks. I can't imagine how much more interest folks would have had if they knew I was building "that big box trick you saw on TV"! Secrecy would have been an absolute impossibilty. Even if you tell the other students that you're building "a high tech storage trunk with an alternate access hatch", you still have AT LEAST the teacher who knows exactly what you're building.

Please, keep this a secret by building it in private! I know that if you don't have the tools at home, it's very tempting to be able to build this wherever you can (although honestly, the tool requirements for a subtrunk are somewhat light). Or, consider the possibilty that you could do all the cutting at any shop, but then do the actual assembly in private. If you build the whole thing in a community area, just remember all those folks you're spoiling the effect for! The subtrunk is a killer effect and should remain that way for all non-magicians!

Again, I apologize if I'm wrong about the appearance of that photo. It just appears that this trunk is being built in a community workshop. It really bothers me when I hear of someone wanting to "build a Modern Art in my 9th grade woodshop". Eeeeek!

Phil

That's what I had in mind. It is, after all, supposed to be a packing crate...right?
At least according to the look...it's not a trunk, a trunk would have a more refined look to it. And the non-removable hinge pins would be acceptable in case an audience member was allowed to inspect the lid. This is an illusion that should look like it can stand up to abuse. And big 'ol strap hinges would help.

But what do I know?

FWIW

I am a fourth year student in mill and cabinet making in high school, no one bothers me because there is a small amount of people in the class, I have not solicited help from my teacher for the top portion of the trunk. Everyone that has seen the crate, and has watched me work on it believes it is for storage for our garage. I tested the t*** in the back finishing room. I hope that answers some of your questions.