Regan, if magic were easy, they would call it football...

:)

Reagan,

If you get the unfinished piece, cut and fit it first, then take it to get polished. That way, they can remove any blemishes you may have causes while cutting and grinding etc.

Good idea Scott!

I am wondering about something else also: Are the stainless sheets polished on one side, or both sides? I am thinking only one side, and if that is the case, I'll have to take it somewhere to get it polished no matter what grade I get.

I know stainless is a hard metal, some grades tougher and harder than others. How do you guys cut it? Band saw? Will heavy-duty tin snips cut thin stainless? Can you file and grind it like most metals or do you need special tools?

Regan

It depends on the gauge of the metal whether you can cut it by hand or use normal sheet metal tools. Don't cut tons of it or you will ruin your tools.

Also, if you are putting this inside a glass for a mirror. Realize that the optics or fluting on the glass will allow you some grace as far as the polishing. If you even use a clear tube, there is some distortion.

My plated metal that I used on my phantom tube is bright finish one side the the other side is pretty good so I don't do anything to it. If a silk appears in that side, it covers the mirror and the eyes are one the silk not the glass after the silk is removed.


Richard

Richard to the rescue again! Thanks friend....that is great advice!

Why do you think you need polished metal? I have made several props over the years, I use glass mirror where I can, it is the best,but the item has to be built around it as it cant flex or be easily drilled etc, otherwise I go for mirrored plexi-glass which is plastic with a film on the back, its near as mirror but can scratch so care is needed in making and storing and of course using, I also polish metal to custom show standard for cars and bikes , and have been doing it for 10 years, but it would never replace mirror,
I have tried to include a photo of a prop but the site wont take it, even though its jpg, and smaler than pixel size allowed!!

I cannot build the prop around the mirror, the mirror has to be made to fit. I need the stainless to flex so it will fit inside because the bottom is slightly larger than the top. Mirror, or plexi-mirror is thicker also, and for this particular application I need it as thin as possible.

Billy, attaching the plexiglass mirror to a sheet of plywood will add strength and protect the backing. In fact, this is recommended for some applications, as it also reduces the weight.

I wound up using a band saw with a 10/14 tooth bi-metal blade to cut 20 gauge. I also tried this on the 26 ga. and it worked well. go slow at first until the metal starts to glow red, then push just fast enough to keep the glow ahead on the blade. tin snips hard difficult to use with stainless, harder on the hand than the snips I think. files and grinds ok, just a little slower then galvanized sheet of the same thickness.
bob

Thanks Bob! I actually got some SS and have been working with it. It did nmanage to cut it with tin snips but like you said, it was difficult and hard on the hands.

Regan