Michael,

Hard maple (often called Eastern Maple) is actually too dense for this application; additionally, it requires more effort to sand smooth and can be prone to splitting. I would consider Cherry too soft for this application.

Boxwood is very strong, stable (not prone to warping) and machines beautifully. I have used it for years for decorative inlay rings in pool cues, as well as small jigs and forming dies for thermoplastics. It makes great carved originals from which to splash off silicone casting molds. It will work fine for your application, though Western Maple would probably be sufficient, and cheaper/more available.

Best Regards,
TW

Thomas,

Noted. Thanks! As I mentioned, Woodcraft here has quite a bit of 4/4 Boxwood in stock. For the items I make, which are smaller, one decent sized board would last me quite a while, and isn't going to run that much. I forgot the bd. ft. price, but I recall not being shocked when I saw it.

Regards,

~michael

Have you considered using Chicago screws??

I thought about suggesting them, but for some reason I was under the impression he was looking for a flush finish, and I've never seen chicago screws with flush heads (for a countersunk hole). I've also never seen the "c" in chicago screws capitalized, but it makes sense that it should be... so what do I know?

In re-reading the thread I fail to find mention of a need for a flush finish, so I guess I imagined that part.

TW

I said "... bolts/nuts stick out the back" and "flush with the wood", so I was looking for as flush a finish on the back side as possible. Thanks for your suggestions. If the hinges came countersunk on the back side, life would be perfect.

;)

1/2" ply is thick enough for a threaded insert or T-Nut as Craig posted earlier. Both have the advantage of using machine screws, no wood displaced and able to be retightened or disassembled if needed. Lok-tite the threads and I think you will not have much trouble with it falling apart.

I used inset T-nuts on my huge entertainment center, it has been moved three times and never had any problems with loose or stripped screws.

Dear Amosmc,

I have another suggestion for attaching piano hinge to plywood (especially thin plywood). Try screw and posts. I get mine at True Value. You can also find them on the internet. You can find them in steel, and I normally use some lock tite to make sure they don't come undone. This creates a strong, clean, flush connection.

Brock Edwards

Dear Amosmc,The rivet setter that mkiger mentioned is what we used to use at a fabrication shop I worked at years ago. When we weren't using the rivet machine we set them by hand on small repairs or tough spots. You just have to have the right rivet diamenter as per tool. Contact a rivet supplier they will have the tools as well. You won't find them at Home Depot or Ace. This is what you need for the flat finish you want, but as said, you may have to inset a washer on the flared side with a tight fit so as to really get a drawn up squeezed set.

Dr. Solar

Thanks for the information. That is what I was looking for.

Can you suggest a supplier that might be willing to sell in "magician-sized" (smaller) quantities?