Jim,

Thank you for your help...

We have paused the cutting until we figure out what to do with the clock. Where could I find the clocks you speak of?

-Bryan

Bryan;
The two clocks that I gutted were windups that I bought at Target on two different times (hence different brand names for the same product). I modified the works for some custom jobs. This is easier than making the works from scratch. The two clock bodies I have are the traditional windup alarms with two bells on the top. If you remove the works carefully, the dial and hands are left intact. For the effect you want to build this would be perfect as the second hand spins around freely when the clock is moved. You could have a patter line like "let's open the clock to see what's wrong". This gives a reason for unscrewing the back of the clock. BTW - the shape of the clock body is perfect for mounting the threaded assembly. It is not quite like Tommy Wonder's clock; but very good for the needed modifications.

These clocks are brass plated steel. After removing the legs, top handle, bells, and filling in the holes, I'd powder coat the body a bright color for good visibility without the annoying reflections of polished brass. Reflections are disturbing to spectators trying to see what is going on.

Now, there is a possibility that the current crop of clocks are battery powered rather than windups. I think the same body is still being used, though. I must have bought my clocks 6-10 years ago and have not really looked at the clocks in the stores recently. You will want to line the clock body with padding to silence things when the watch is loaded.

Jim

Posted: Feb 23, 2007 9:13pm
Bryan;
I have a scientific clock work item that has a threaded removable back on it out in the shop. I'll measure the thread count as it is good for this effect.
Jim

Posted: Feb 23, 2007 9:25pm
Bryan;
I just checked the threads on this timer mechanism. They are 20 tpi with the male threaded section only about 1/4" long with a 1/16" shoulder. It took 4+ complete turns to screw on/off the back.

They work nicely but are a little fine for putting in the required stop pin. I do not think I'd go finer than 16 tpi and probably would use 10-13 tpi to avoid delicate threads that could be ruined by a spectator. The coarser the threads the stronger they are.
Jim

Jim,

You are a priceless resource! Thak you for your help! Have you been working on this project as well? If so, how is your table coming along?

-Bryan

Bryan;
I am not making one of these; but have considered making a variation of the apparaus to do something slightly different. I consider it to be a straight forward consruction poject - no more difficult nor complex than many others. The box will be the finicky part of the project and I would make a few changes on it. Being able to make anything I might want or need, I enjoy studying the details and thought processes of others to learn from their successes and failures. The construction is merely one step after the next until things are completed.

The Tommy Wonder thought process is evident throughout the whole apparatus. I wonder how many times he rebuilt the apparatus to get it to where it ended up. All we need to do is to expand upon his work. His thinking and design work were the most difficult phase of the effect. His attention to detail and understanding of his audiences is very impressive.

BTW - I would suggest making the threaded part of the clock from brass. Others who do not understand the characteristics of metals might suggest aluminum. Aluminum often "welds" together on contact so tightly that threaded items can not be separated. Brass is much more durable and forgiving. A spectator could easily ruin an aluminum threaded gimmick.

Good luck with yours.
Jim

Jim, as usual, is a fount of knowledge, and immensely helpful. Thanks for being there -

Bill

I also saw a clock at Target that resembles Tommy's about a month ago. I think it was a seasonal item. I picked it up and thought of Tommy Wonder and should have bought it for a future project. I'm just working from memory but I think the clock was antique brass and about 5" in diameter. It had the typical small AA battery clock mechanism inside.

Dan

Seems Target is one place I need to check for the clock indefinately...

I really like the idea of powdercoating the clock as mentioned in earlier responses...

-Bryan