Any tips on working with Balsa wood? I want to build a zombie-ish gimmicked guitar, and perhaps a hand drum, either a djembe or an irish bodhran looking drum. These will not be playable, just good for a quick visual on stage with my band.

Just a thought...

You may want to consider EPS (expanded polystyrene) for this instead of, or in addition to, the balsa. EPS is being used throughout the themed entertainment industry as a lightweight, easy to work alternative to wood and plaster in applications including moldings and statuary. It'll need a hard coat to protect it, but it machines beautifully and weighs practically nothing. I just designed a 12-foot-diameter rotunda for a theatrical set, and the top part (the entablature, on top of the columns) was mostly EPS; a lot of it was cut on a band saw.

There are some precautions to working with this stuff -- flammability and toxic fumes if you use a hot knife -- so you'll want to get some info from the dealer before you start working with it. But it's a wonderful material for some of these applications.

Balsa is a wonderful material, strong and light, but needs to be applied over a frame (balsa as well, naturally.) Build the frame first, then add the balsa sheets and strips. To bend around the curved portion of the guitar, bend with the grain, not against it. Use model cement, usually Testor's quick-drying.

In my model airplane days I learned a respect for balsa. I nosed many a plane into the ground at full power yet, a few dabs of glue and a few minutes later, had them back in the air again.

Thanks guys... great info.

Whats a good source for EPS?

EPS is also used in the packaging industry to cushion products, you may try contacting local vendors of packaging material and or do a Google search.

Bill

Don’t know if this is the same type of material, but I have used a foam product that is used for filling gaps around windows and doors. I purchased it from our local home hardware center. It was called Great Stuff and came in an aerosol can.

It sprays out like shaving cream, expands and then dries hard. You can then cut the foam with a knife.

Balsa is a great material. When cutting it, use a very fine teeth razor saw as it splinters easily. As it is quite absorbent, you can reach truly amazing results in the finish when using stains and when properly done, it will look like "real" wood.

There´s 3 types of balsa available: A, B and C grain. If you want a simple rule, use A grain balsa for support structure and longer pieces, and B grain for surfaces.

You could also use balsa as a surface only. I once made a 4 by 4 for a TV show (a person was hit with it) from a piece of styrofoam which was "laminated" with balsa that was stained and weathered.

Some paints and lacquers (not all though) cause the balsa to warp, so you might want to test with a small piece. Also remember that paint adds weight, a thing so many people often forget.

Wow, thanks everyone. great tips. You guys are the best.

You can look for EPS at local foam places; there may even be a company that does architectural foam work in your area. A few years ago there were companies in Orlando and Gainesville that did this type of work for theme parks. I don't know if they're still around, but you may be able to get some scraps from them.

Another choice (and just as easy to work with) might be sign-makers foam, which is a high-density open-cell material kinda like the foam insulation you can buy at home-improvement centers. Try large sign companies for this; you may be able to get some scraps from them as well.

Great Stuff is just that -- great stuff. It's very useful for correcting oopses when carving foam and for blobbing over a wire or aluminum foil underframe. Comes in a spray can (try Ace Hardware) and carves nicely when dry.

Have fun and keep us posted.