I just recently got back into magic, and going through some of my props I found a completely unassembled Tannens Ultra Utility Reel.

I've got the directions, but it doesn't mention the steel washer, does that go on the bottom between the drum and case?

How do I thread it, why is there a slit in the top of the drum?

Is there a better section in the forums I should post this?



Boomer

Sorry, need a picture of what you are talking about. Not all reels are made the same. Have to see how your's is made. There is no steel washer in a reel that I have used and repaired over the years. Usually a piece of playing card, a piece of felt.

Is there a brake disk? There should be a slit in the post sticking up in the center of the drum or back wall of the casing that the spring goes into and winds around. The spring should have like a letter "S" configuration in it on the end it is detached. Some spring are riveted and some are loose wrapped around a post.

Is the line broken, or the spring detached. If the spring is detached from the drum, it is not repairable.

You wind the line counter clockwise as you look at the spring in the drum wheel. How else?

Bill,

I'll get a picture taken later today and post it to my site.

I did a google image search, and found my reel, but none of it taken apart.


Boomer

Found the camera hiding in the closet, took some close-ups (pun intended)

http://www.ai6k.com/magic/reel/TannenUltraUtilityReel-2.jpg
http://www.ai6k.com/magic/reel/TannenUlt......Drum.jpg
http://www.ai6k.com/magic/reel/TannenUltraUtilityReel.jpg


Boomer

Okay, thanks for the pics.

What you have is a standard Finger Reel, looks like yours had thread and not clear line. You should attach some clear Nylon 3 lb. fishing line (get it at Wal-Mart or K-Mart for cheap) where the black thread is tied. Then wrap it around the drum. It should extend about 32 inches from the case while on the reel, so cut off like 60" or more to set it after assembly. Finally look on the Internet for tying knots, and tie a surgeons knot to the drum.

The spring: You have to put that straight part in the middle of your coiled spring pic, into the slit on the drum. You need to use a needle nose pliers and as you lower the drum into the back case and down on the pin into the slit. Do not let the turned down or up portions get into the slit. This is the hardest part of reassembling a reel, that is why I use extra long line and set the tension last.

That washer looks like it is just to bent up, either buy some metal at the local hardware and make a new one, or just cut a playing card to match the washer. Those dents as in the photo will cause out of balance and rubbing and wearing. You can try hammering it straight, but if it is not perfectly straight, it will not work smoothly. This has close tolerances. The washer, I would say goes in 1st, then the drum, then black disk, I would replace that with a new cut playing card as well, if it is plastic, then find some plastic. Then the sponge, then the finger brake disc, finally the outer case top. Before sealing apply Vaseline to the back disc where the metal one is, then apply to the spring area, then coat the black disc. Vaseline will not run out like other lubrication. This will help make it silent in operation as well. Also prevents the spring from rusting.

After assembly, put a very small rubber washer (find at hardware store) on the line. Now pull the line out until you feel tension, you do not want a super tight slam against the case tight, nor do you want a silk's weight to pull it out of the housing. Now work the line back and forth to take out any slack from the winding. Don't pull it out completely, only nearly completely. In other words, don't put any presser or pull on the very end where it is connected to the drum. Now you are ready to attach to a silk, or if you have the dress snap clip, tie it on to the clip, again with a surgeon's knot. Remember, that you will not have any extra line to change from your 1st choice if you intend to sew or tie to a silk or rope. So make your decision wisely, otherwise you will be doing this all over again.

Never pull the line out without a silk or rope on the line. To do so will break and/or line and spring.

Never - Never - Never pull the line out and let it snap back on it own.

Well, that is it, in a couple hours you will have it back together good as new.

Bill,

I don't know how to respond except with a simple thank-you.

When I took the pictures, it really made the dent in the washer stick out. I was thinking of trying to hammer it out, but I like your recommendations better.

I appreciate the time you spent to provide this information, and hopefully I can pay it forward.


Boomer

You are welcome.

I have to say, you don't really need the rubber washer on the reel, but some like to use it, it can also be used as a lock for the extended line in some tricks. Whatever you decide for the working end, you can tie the rubber washer to it as well. This would be for say a flower, you can use a small safety pin and pin it to a flower putting it through the washer.

Most configuration for the attachment end has been chosen by the manufacturer. There have been several idea, but none that seemed to work for me. I usually, just have loop of on the line and put the corner of the silk through it, and tie a very small knot in the silk around it.

If you want an excellent DVD on the subject, get Paul Diamonds Reel Magic video download.

http://llepub.com/index.php?main_page=pr......s_id=545

I used to have a huge collection of Paul Diamonds on VHS tape. I think there were 11 volumes. I converted them to video and put them on a DVD, I'll dig it up and see if that's what I actually have.

Thanks again,


Boomer

Bravo Bill, good info. Wish I knew this years ago - you'd be surprised at how many reels I've thrown away.


Jim