Ahhh, yes... it's time once again for Adventures in Paint, brought to you by Michael Baker.

As many of you will recall, in the past there was an issue with our dear friends at Krylon when they decided to change the formula of their rattle can paints. Many otherwise competent magic builders were brought to their knees, lamenting the day they ever bought a can of the wretched new and improved formula. Many fine projects were ruined by the ugly underworld demons that Krylon managed to cram in a can.

Well, now I am here to tell you of another potentially scary pitfall awaiting the unaware painter. This time it is not Krylon, but the trusted Rustoleum. While not having the great color range as Krylon, Rustoleum was able to boast superior coverage, and a rock hard finish. It was also quite forgiving of additional layers, of whatever color.

Now though, Rustoleum is offering a new paint they call Ultra Cover 2X. It carries both the Rustoleum and American Accents names on the can. It has a pretty fast dry time compared to the Rustoleum enamel, even if the recoat windows are the same. There are decided advantages to this, as you can imagine.

I figured I would try it to see how it performed. Well, I am here to tell you that it performed like tigers in the circus... powerful good, but don't turn your back on it. You must respect what it is. Let me explain...

With a typical paint/decal application, I must use a clear gloss top coat. Clear lacquer is a no-no if applying over enamel, so my weapon of choice has been Rustoleum clear enamel. Never had a single problem with it, applied over ANY other paint, enamel lacquer or whatever. That is until I tried to spray it over this new stuff. AARRGGHH!!!! Immediate wrinkles and screwed up paint, as it ate into the undercoats.

Nooooo! Not the old standby, reliable, never fail Rustoleum?!?!!

So, even though both were from the same company, they should not be considered more than step-brothers. After one totally botched project, I did the research that I SHOULD HAVE DONE before, and found out that there are clear sprays (both gloss and flat) in the same 2X brand. Whodathunkit??

I bought some, and problem solved. So... until someone invents some kind of anti-rejection drugs for paint, consider this a lesson worth learning on my dime.

:)

Michael, thanks for the heads up. Sorry it cost you one of your great props.

Agreed - thank you very much for the info! Sorry about your bad luck with the prop - yours always look so nice

Now, if we can get them to offer a larger collection of colors, this stuff might be hard to beat. The coverage is pretty impressive. So far, no problems with it other than that mentioned above, which my bone-headed self found out.

Rustolium enamel spray paint is lacquer not oil based enamel. (Not funny).... I found this out by talking to their customer service 4 years ago when they changed their formula for the third time. They said, about 20 years ago the definition of enamel was changed to designate the hardness of the finish. - their words. If you want real enamel look for "oil" somewhere in the contents.

The new 2x takes very specific product knowledge to "work" it. I've spent many many hours figuring-out the idiosyncrasies. Best to stay away unless your painting wicker furniture with one coat

If Rustoleum is indeed lacquer then that's a first for me, although their brushing enamels do specify oil-based. I have never seen a lacquer that took a full day to dry and that could not be recoated anytime.

I will however agree that the metallics are probably lacquer (same with Krylon). They dry very fast and never a problem recoating anytime. There are however some issues layering paint over these.

Regarding the hardness of the finish, that is one reason I stopped using Valspar sprays. When they came out with a new formula, it was touted as fast drying with anytime recoat. The problem I found was that the finish stayed soft sometimes for weeks, making it susceptible to finger prints during handling. Now they have come out with a line that is combined paint and primer. That seems to be the entire line at Lowes now. I'm not convinced that is a good thing. I'd rather be able to regulate the ratio.

So, Jay... other than the fact that you spent a long time on the learning curve for 2X, are there any more specific reasons it should be avoided? It seems to be treating me well, aside from that clear coat disaster.

Adding a second coat can ruin the entire project (fish eyes, solvent caused bubbles, wrinkling) unless you have it "all" down, timing-wise, tempature-wise, re-sanding within an exact window. Angle of spray and distance.
I spent at least 60 hours experimenting with all the options. Some people have no problems and I always need to follow my own chart, possibly because I'm 4 miles from an ocean and humidity has an effect. All I know is if'n I dun't use dat product an exact way, the piece needs sanded down and set aside for a week.

Call their 800 number and ask about the Enamel spray paint stating it's Enamel on the label but it's really lacquer. That only applies to the propellant spray paint not hand-applied (so they said). They have a semi-new "All Surfaces" paint that may cover lacquer -or- enamel, I have not tested that product yet.

The other tidbit the tech gave me (probably to get me off the phone because I was asking questions for over two hours, not kidding) He done said "The major difference between indoor paint and outdoor paint, aside form UV protectorate is....... there is bug repellant in the outdoor paint." that's what he a, said.

NOW, Here is everyone's homework; Go to the box store and read every label you can on house paint. See if the labels read "bug repellant" or "pesticide" anwhere..........NO WHERE TO BE FOUND!!!
He said 20 years ago it was common practice to use DDT... That's what the man said. Now, it's less hazardous - but he wouldn't say what it was.

Well, I have yet to find a phase of this business that is constant. Just one more thing to keep life interesting.

Remember when plywood was actually square, when it came from the lumber yard?
Remember when it was as thick as advertised?
Remember when they used Formaldehyde in the adhesive that makes plywood ... oh wait a minute, many still do.

Thanks Michael. I was curious about that new paint. Sorry it happened to you, but I'm glad you warned me!

Good to know. Thanks,

Years ago I made a box table, applied 3 coats of Bin Primer, and 8 coats of Rustoleum spray paint, sanding between coats. Turned out very well.

If you want a really hard paint to apply, get some Epoxy Paint. That stuff sets as you apply it, can't brush it over twice. Have to place a very heavy amount on the brush if you want any flow at all. But you end up with a very hard surface paint. It does come in sprat cans, but I had a lot of wood table tops to paint, so I chose to brush it on.

The spray works better, my Epoxy Gloss Paint Black coated Wand and looks like fine polished wood. And you can recoat it without problems.