I constructed a thin case, 2x4, which will lay on top of a keyboard stand. Trying to figure out how to get the lid to swing open all the way, so that it hangs down. Instead, the lid will open so far, and then it is blocked.

Not sure if there are some special hinges out there? Perhaps longer or extended?

I'm new to woodworking. This is my first project.

Here are some photos to better illustrate.

http://www.motivationalmagic.com/woodencase/woodencase.html

Also, am looking for ideas on what I can do to secure the keyboard stand to the back of the wooden case when packing it in the car. This would enable me to make less trips back and forth to the car. (See the last picture).

Should the wood be treated to help the nice appearance of the wood last longer? If so, what should I buy and how is it applied?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Rich

For the opening of the case, the best thing I could think of is just re-positioning the hinges. Instead of the hinge that is attached to the case be on the inside, it should be on the back outside. And the hinge that is on the lid should remain on the inside as is.
You would just need to move the hinge to the back of the case and screw it on the back. But, this will be on the outside, which means you will see the hinge. If that is OK with you?

Also, make sure the hinge you have opens up all the way on both sides. A 360' rotation. Some stop short, which also may prevent opening all the way.

To strap the stand to the case, you can find straps at a hardware store. One of the ideas is similar in design to a backpack. It has a little plastic part with 2 holes allowing the strap to go in between. All you would need to do is just when closing it, put the strap through the hole, and pull on it to tighten.
Another strap also has a similar feature - the holes, but, to tighten the strap is a small metal crank type of thing:
http://www.wescomfg.com/loadbinder.jpg
These are very easy and the best to use. Come in many sizes. The smallest version should be best.

Look here:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=259

That still won't work. Follow ClintonMagus' link to the overlay hinge.

Another way would involve mitering the joint where the lid and box will hinge, and attach the hinge on the outside, at the apex of the joint. This allows the outide surface of the lid to come face to face with the outside surface of the box.

You'd probably want a wide hinge or a strap hinge, so the screws had some wood to bite. Of course, the hinge would be entirely visible from the outside. The overlay hinge would hide, at least part of the hinge.

By adding another board to your lid and hinging to the bottom, this might work.
Ray

I second the overlay hinge. But go the extra mile and use 3 pairs for such a heavy box & lid. I'd also recommend using longer screws than what come with, at least for the 3 screws that face downward on each hinge and into the lid itself.

Otherwise, I'd also recommend some sort of "tie down" straps for the underside of the box. If it were mine I'd be worried about it coming off the stand. Straps would prevent this from happening.

Why wouldn't attaching the hinge to the back of the lid and the back of the box work?

If the box and the lid are plywood, the screws won't have a good material to "bite" into on the edge of the lid.

Same web page, but another style overlay hinge:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5463

This one hides a bit better, but is more utilitarian and not so stylish. Choices.

Not the back of the lid and the back of the box. That would only allow the sides (or edges) that the hinge wings are attached to, to come together, a turn of 180 degrees. This needs a turn of 270 degrees.

However...

With the lid framed, as it appears to be in the photos, it could work if the hinge was screwed to the top of the lid, so the pin barrel is at the very back edge of the lid. Then the remainder (the other wing) of the hinge could hang straight down and screw into the back of the box, as long as it doesn't attach to the back of the lid. This could be done with a longer hinge like a strap hinge. It would be necessary to round off the lower back edge of the lid, so it doesn't bind.

This would allow the top of the lid to come into contact with the back of the box... a turn of 270 degrees!

Many hinges will only open a maximum of 270 degrees, so it would be necessary to orient the hinge correctly, opened maximum when the box is closed and fully closed whenthe box is open. Pin barrel would have to be to the outside, and not to the inside.

Whew... This is hard to do without drawing it out!

Got it. alittle slow today, everyday.

You should have seen me mapping this out at home so I could try to describe it in words. LOL!

Gentlemen, thank you so much for investing some of your time to review this and provide so many valuable suggestions. I will try a few of these approaches and see what works out. I am very, very grateful for your help!

Rich