Hi everyone, I haven't introduced myself yet so here is my intro. My name is Lucas and I am 15 years old. The magic that I like performing the most is stage, but I also do some children's magic show. Until now I haven't had any stage "illusions", but last night I went and bought materials and I am building my first illusion. It will be a shadow box (base type). It will look something like the attached image. Anyway I am really excited to build this and I will upload pics when I start the building. Also do you think a plain old shadow box appearance is better than a shadow theatre dissappearance? Is it better to use a hinged front and back door or use roller shades? Let me know!

Okay I just started building today...maybe I'll get some pics uploaded tomorrow night!

Good luck on this project.

The advise I can recommend is:

1) Get the Rand Woodberry's DVDs 'Illusion works' to see how he built his base. The books have the plans in them but are a little more expensive.

2) Make sure the base is separate to the shadow box. That way once you perform the illusion, you can take off the shadow box and use the base again for another effect.

3) You are young, so use your age as an advantage. Get the help and advice from a local builder or woodworking teacher, who can guide you along with the project. They have access to all the tools and are willing to help out young people develop their dream for free.

4) Make sure you can take the legs off, and that it folds flat if possible. You will need to transport it in a car to the venue, and it needs to fold flat to fit in the boot. It also helps when trying to store it at home.

Steve

1. I have watched the video many times...I am very knowledgable with bases.

2. It is going to be...I am planning on a shadow box, crystal casket, maybe a spiker illusion.

3. I have taken woodworking projects for 4-H for four years, my dad has a workshop with all the tools imaginable.

4. that's my major dilemma...I can't figure out how to take them off...would bolts work the best?

Illusionist11-
Carriage bolts and wing-nuts work well for removable legs. You can also use tee nuts. Legs are usually the weakest point on a base, so design accordingly- the bolts should attach at the front and side, and a leg made of two 1X4's glued like an "L" is stronger than one made from a single 2x4.

Better yet, here's an inexpensive book you should really check out; it's only $20 and will give you a -lot- of good tips that you may not be aware of yet:
http://hamiltonholtinc.stores.yahoo.net/profilbuilfo.html

Good luck!
-Erik

Thanks a lot Erik...tee nuts just might be the things I was looking for...again thanks!

Okay new pics...definetly not finished yet...It will be a base with a box on top of little legs, like Rich Hill's Crystal Caskets, look at a pic of his illusion, you'll see what I mean...here is what I have so far, let me know what you think!

From the photos, you appear to be a pretty competent craftsman for your age. Sure you're only 15? Very nice work!
'unc.

From the looks of it, you have got some good skills. It also looks like that you will need a trailer to move it anywhere. I'd love to see the finished product. Just be careful if you want to show any more of your progress on it that you don't accidently reveal anything that you shouldn't, I'm sure you won't.

Hey, looks good. Some unasked for advice for your next illusion- it's tough to tell from the picture, but if those are 2x4's on the frame, you'll find the prop will be very heavy. (I've learned this from experience.) While it won't affect your performance, it'll make moving it to and from the venue a lot more difficult- like MagicMatthews said, you may need a trailer to move it.

Overbuilding is a common mistake- we've all done it. Instead of softwood fir 2x4's, you can use hardwood poplar 1x4's. Although hardwood is more expensive per foot, it's also much stronger, and much more resistant to scratches- and since you can use thinner boards, it makes everything much lighter. When I build for strength and durability, I use poplar boards and birch plywood. (Or oak for both if I plan on staining it instead of painting.)

-Erik

Thanks for the suggestions...It's very easy for me to lift right now, and I'm only 15...seriously...just a bit more to go. The legs will come off, and whatever is on top..it will be a multi-base...new pics this week sometime...I wont reveal..

Looks cool.

Okay one question...once I cut the S****x for the t**p ...do I need to sew the edges...will it fray, or do I leave it go?

I stole these spandex handling ideas from the web:

Cutting and marking

" Do not allow the fabric to stretch when cutting and marking. Do not allow it to hand over the edges of the table.

" Do not use pins to secure the pattern. Trim the excess paper along the cutting lines of the pattern, and use weights to keep the pattern from shifting around.

" Mark around the edges with chalk. Lift the pattern out of the way to mark notches and avoid using small nips in the edge to mark them. If you use even the smallest of cuts for notches, the cuts have a nasty habit of "growing" larger.



Sewing

" Use a new sharp needle (not a ball point or universal point). A sharp, violet-band needle, size 10 or 12 in both your sewing machine and serger is recommended. If you are having trouble getting the fabric to feed evenly without bunching when using your serger, try this needle before you replace your cutting blade.

" Serging is best for all seams. If you don’t have a serger, use a small zig zag (1 mm wide and 1.5 mm long) on the sewing machine.

" Use the differential feed on the serger, and the walking foot on the sewing machine. This usually works to tame the slipperiness and uneven feeding of layers.

" If you are finding it hard to get started at the beginning of each seam on the sewing machine, place a lightweight machine embroidery tissue underneath the fabric and hold the thread. Remove the paper gently after you’re done.

" Hemming—what you do depends on where the hem is, and your equipment situation. For all hems, first serge/zig zag the raw edge and mark the hem allowance on the right side of the fabric with chalk. To hem side slits and simple necklines, turn the hem allowance to the inside and sew from the right or wrong side. To hem bottom hemlines and simple necklines, the treatment of choice is to use the twin needle from the right side. Blind hemming works well for hemming bottom edges too. Forget about hand hemming—the fabric is so stretchy the stitches will pop once you’ve worn the garment a couple of times.



Ironing

" Ironing spandex is not recommended. Spandex is heat sensitive, and the fabric easily gets permanent shiny marks on it. If you absolutely must iron, hold the iron above the fabric, give it a shot of steam and finger press it.

So your saying I don't have to mess with it...has anyone else made a base with Spandex?

Do not cut the spandex. First staple it in place, and when you know it's right, trim off the excess. Good luck!

But...I have to overlap two pieces...

You'll need to experiment until you get it how you like it, but when I used spandex, I used two overlapping pieces the size of the opening, attached the whole way along three of the four sides. Your milage may vary- I used much less spandex than you'll need to use.

-Erik

So your saying I should staple some on…then trim the excess…then do the same for the other side..so it leaves a little overlap..i thought I wasn’t supposed to cut it while it is stretched…wont it make it rip?

It should leave a lot of overlap- necessary, because spandex will eventually start to sag. And the part outside the staples isn't stretched. I used hot glue to help prevent ripping- any tears should stop at the hot glue- but you can also hem the edges to prevent tears.

Trust me, experiment a bit; experience is the absolute best way to learn, and replacement spandex isn't too expensive. Good luck!

-Erik