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Bryan Gilles![]() Inner circle Northern California 1732 Posts ![]() |
I have searched all over for a laminate (or Formica) used to cover coutner-tops that is solid in color... I have found several types that are exactly the color I need, but they are brown on the edges... therefore, when I trim the sheets after applying it to the illusion, it will have brown edges... any good sources for laminates that are solid color to the core? Or even a product name?
Any great refferences would be a great help! Bryan |
leapinglizards![]() Inner circle 1263 Posts ![]() |
I have worked extensively with lamiantes and I am not aware of any that are solid color straight through. The only thing I could think of, if a hair line black edge ruins your design, would be to apply the laminate BEFORE you assemble, and miter everything including the laminate.
I never found the thin black edge to really be an issue though. You COULD have a body wrap made from adhesive vinyl in any color/ design you can think of and use that as well. (I'd still use Formica to give the vinyl a good surface to adhere to.) Corian comes in solid colors straight through, but it costs a bajillion dollars is hard to work and weighs a ton. With Corian you would actually construct the illusion from the stock. You might be able to find thin acrylic sheets in the colors you want but that would mean less durability than formica/laminates. BTW- Nevamar is my brand name of choice due to cost, and the fact that they have almost all their colors in both glossy AND flat versions. Of course that might be moer an issue of supplier Vs manufacturer. PM me if you need to
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George Ledo![]() Magic Café Columnist SF Bay Area 3045 Posts ![]() |
Formica used to make a product named Color Core, which has the color going all the way thru the material. I just tried the Formica U.S. Web site, but didn't get anywhere. However, the product shows up on Google in Formica UK.
You may want to try a local Formica dealer and see if they can get it for you.
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kregg![]() Inner circle 1950 Posts ![]() |
There is a product used for repairing scratches and blending edges (Tintzall?). I usually use a Sharpie if I need to blend the edge or do touch ups.
POOF!
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kregg![]() Inner circle 1950 Posts ![]() |
P.S.
I do remember seeing a product that George mentioned. But, even with through colors the edge always looks different (if you cut black the edge looks grey).
POOF!
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Bryan Gilles![]() Inner circle Northern California 1732 Posts ![]() |
Well, at least I have a couple choices to work with... Thanks guys...
Bryan |
Bryan Gilles![]() Inner circle Northern California 1732 Posts ![]() |
Well, at least I have a couple choices to work with... Thanks guys...
Bryan |
Leland Stone![]() Inner circle 1204 Posts ![]() |
Hello, Bryan:
"Color Core" would definitely have been the way to go -- I was unaware that it was so difficult to obtain here in the U.S. You might call a local laminates distributor and explain your needs; perhaps they can offer an alternative product. Or you may simply change your application technique: In most cabinet work using laminates, the faces are laminated first, leaving the brown cores you mentioned (these are layers of kraft paper and resin, the substrate on which the top colour layer is laminated) exposed. These are then covered with a contrasting or complementing vinyl tape, widely available online ( http://www.rockler.com http://www.edgeitedgebanding.com ) or even at your local Home Depot (in more limited colours). This vinyl tape is typically self-adhesive and 13/16" in width. The tape is coloured all the way through, thus hiding any exposed brown edge. Finish with a fine toothed file, beveling the tape edges slightly. Leland |
Bryan Gilles![]() Inner circle Northern California 1732 Posts ![]() |
To set up the laminate for miter cuts, do I apply it to the surface and then run the two through the table saw or whatever? Or will this chip the laminate?
Bryan |
Bryan Gilles![]() Inner circle Northern California 1732 Posts ![]() |
To set up the laminate for miter cuts, do I apply it to the surface and then run the two through the table saw or whatever? Or will this chip the laminate?
Bryan |
Lou Hilario Inner circle 2234 Posts ![]() |
I prefer fiberglas over formica. I get to choose a textile material that suits my prop and simply apply fiberglass and clear resin over it, place cellophane and use a rubber roller to smoothen it. It become scratch proof. That is the way I laminate over wood.
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leapinglizards![]() Inner circle 1263 Posts ![]() |
Lou- I'd like to hear more detail about your technique.
I've used fiberglass, but only molded, never as you described- not with cellophane. Are you saying you cover the prop in fabric and then paint it with clear resin? Bryan- Yes, to miter the laminate you would glue it down then cut... which means using the right blade or YES, it may chip
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Lou Hilario Inner circle 2234 Posts ![]() |
Quote:
On 2006-03-10 23:00, leapinglizards wrote: Yes, that's right. I cover the prop in fabric and paint it with clear resin and apply a layer of fiberglass sheet on it. It is also possible to sprinkle some metallic dust on the fabric before the resin hardens. I learned it in a resin seminar. This is also the way they laminate diplomas on wood. I've only done this on my box tricks, cases and flat surfaces.
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http://www.louhilario.net |
leapinglizards![]() Inner circle 1263 Posts ![]() |
I may have to experiment with that technique.... Anything to avoid PAINT!
;)
Leaping Lizards!!! Who knew it was possible.
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makeupguy![]() Inner circle 1411 Posts ![]() |
You can also use the same epoxy based paint that people use on garage floors. Tint it with Universal tints available in any good (non home) paint store.
It can go on quite thick... or thin.. and will last practically forever.. |