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Magnus Eisengrim
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Quote:
On 2009-02-20 00:29, Thomas Wayne wrote:
Personally I think the "Woodmagazine" drill jig (as diagrammed) is not necessary for what you're trying to do. Clamp a chunk of scrap 2 x 6 to your $80 drill press table and drill a large hole into it - I think anything from 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" should be sufficient. Without changing the orientation of the now-drilled board, change bits and use the hole to position the ball.

Because the first [large] hole is centered under the drill press quill, the ball will rest in that hole such that it is also centered under the quill. Prevent the ball from rotating and/or moving around by gripping it firmly with your left hand. "Peck drill" the hole - peck drilling is the term for drilling into your work a little and then pulling back out to clear chips/swarf, repeatedly until you're through the work. This technique should keep the friction down to a level that allows you to maintain your grip on the ball.

Of course, I personally would drill it in a machinist's lathe, but that's cause I have a bunch of them.

TW


Thomas. I misread you the first time. (Probably because I was thinking of making a large hole like the workshop plan indicated. Duh!) Your solution is much more elegant than that. Thank you. This is an EXCELLENT idea.

John
The blood-dimmed tide is loosed, and everywhere
The ceremony of innocence is drowned;
The best lack all conviction, while the worst
Are full of passionate intensity.--Yeats
Thomas Wayne
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John,

My suggestion was based on your parameters that the hole you wanted in the ball is a small hole (3/16") in a large (2") ball. I wouldn't have suggested a hand-held clamping method for drilling a large hole, as you would be taking a chance on hurting yourself (as mentioned by some overcautious, clumsy wuss above). Given a 2" diameter grip surface vs. a 3/16" hole I think you will be plenty capable of resisting whatever torque the drillbit produces. Additionally, if you do lose your grip the ball will most likely just spin harmlessly in place as you yank your hand away in an overly cautious, wuss-like manner (which is exactly what I would do as well).

Overall I think the method is quick, simple, and will work fine. As with any project, your mileage may vary and you are always taking a chance on getting injured when working with ANY tool - so err on the side of caution.

TW
MOST magicians: "Here's a quarter, it's gone, you're an idiot, it's back, you're a jerk, show's over." Jerry Seinfeld
Magnus Eisengrim
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Thanks again everyone. I hand-held the ball for my first trial, above. With the hand drill and no anchoring I was probably close enough that the audience wouldn't notice, but it was definitely off centre.

I'll try your suggestion this weekend. My guess is that with the "seat" that Thomas suggests I can do a reasonable job just with the hand drill. But unless I see a good reason not to do so, I'll probably buy an inexpensive drill press anyways.

John
The blood-dimmed tide is loosed, and everywhere
The ceremony of innocence is drowned;
The best lack all conviction, while the worst
Are full of passionate intensity.--Yeats
EsnRedshirt
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Thomas,

I hope you didn't take any offense at my comments. I am indeed clumsy, and usually end up wearing a band-aid after every workshop product for some reason or another, despite always wearing workgloves and proper safety gear. I've had everything from a hack-saw slicing into my thumb tip vertically, to a screwdriver bit plunging into the meat between my finger and thumb, to a swiss army knife slamming shut and cutting my finger nearly to the bone.

If I wasn't paranoid about safety around all sorts of power tools, I probably would be a one-handed, four fingered, eight-toed magician by now. (Which would make sleight-of-hand extremely difficult.) So I just preach what I practice, and try to keep from cutting off any important bits.

-Erik
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* = Take any advice from this person with a grain of salt.
Thomas Wayne
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Quote:
On 2009-02-20 15:08, EsnRedshirt wrote:
Thomas,

I hope you didn't take any offense at my comments. I am indeed clumsy, and usually end up wearing a band-aid after every workshop product for some reason or another, despite always wearing workgloves and proper safety gear. I've had everything from a hack-saw slicing into my thumb tip vertically, to a screwdriver bit plunging into the meat between my finger and thumb, to a swiss army knife slamming shut and cutting my finger nearly to the bone.

If I wasn't paranoid about safety around all sorts of power tools, I probably would be a one-handed, four fingered, eight-toed magician by now. (Which would make sleight-of-hand extremely difficult.) So I just preach what I practice, and try to keep from cutting off any important bits.

-Erik


It's often hard to tell what a person's attitude is when reading the cold, hard text on one's screen. If you go back and read my response with the premise that I was wearing a friendly smile when I wrote it you will probably interpret correctly what my attitude was.

I, too, preach safety first - having nipped off the very tips of a couple of fingers over the years, along with countless cuts, scrapes and smashed fingernails. Many years ago Fine Woodworking magazine ran a reader survey in order to accumulate data regarding hand injuries in the woodshop. When all the smoke cleared (~1000 responses later) they drew the following conclusions:

1) The shop tool responsible for most hand injuries is the table saw. They felt that this conclusion is mitigated, however, by the fact that the table saw is also the tool most likely to be found in virtually all woodworking shops - so its common nature accounts for its involvement in hand injuries. To this day, when I use my table saw I maintain the highest possible focus on the task at hand.

2) The tool likely to cause the WORST injuries is the radial-arm saw. This is due to the large exposed blade area and the fact that the motor (and blade) can track freely out toward the operator when a jam occurs. Of significant note is the fact that when a radial-arm saw is involved in a hand injury there is almost always an amputation of at least one finger, and often as severe as an entire hand. (I sold my radial-arm saw the day I read that article, and haven't owned one since)

3) In the vast majority of hand injury cases (on the order of 80%+), the victim had a strong feeling of impending danger immediately prior to the accident. We call this the "little voice", and I always recommend that when you hear it in your own head you pay strict attention. Whenever I am using a tool of any sort and my little voice sounds a warning I immediately STOP what I am doing and analyze whether there is a safer approach. Perhaps a better clamping method, additional safety gear or guards, or a way to separate my hand farther from the workpiece (push sticks, for example). If I can't find a safer way I either abandon the operation for a different technique, or I proceed with all my senses on the highest alert.

If you are the type of person who likes to fabricate the occasional prop (or whatever) and you take a moment to absorb the above lessons gleaned from that age-old article I can virtually guarantee your hands will be safer.

TW
(PS: Never, never, never wear gloves when operating stationary power tools. The slight (nearly imaginary) "protection" that a layer of canvas or leather offers is horrifically offset by the catastrophe that awaits you if a blade or cutter head catches the glove and drags your hand into it.)
MOST magicians: "Here's a quarter, it's gone, you're an idiot, it's back, you're a jerk, show's over." Jerry Seinfeld
David Bilan
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If this is going to be a once in a life time shot and you only need a small number (six or fewer)... How about some begging?

Anybody out there willing to do the drilling for John? Postage both ways can't cost much. The job would take less time than packaging the stuff up for shipping.

I don't own a drill press or a lathe; otherwise I'd be happy to do it.

It's been a good conversation. When taxes come in, I might head over to Harbor Freight...
Yes, I am a magician. No I did not make my hare (hair) disappear... it just took early retirement.
Craig Dickens
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I just want to clarify that the drill guide I suggested is not the thing pictured. It is a simple inexpensive jig made of clear plastic ( around 4 inches square). It has several metal bushings which fit into it's center to match the bit width. There is no need to spend $80.00 on a drill press or custom turn balls. Keep it simple, this is what I would use first for your application. Search the Rockler site for information on this.
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Magnus Eisengrim
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Quote:
On 2009-02-20 19:29, David Bilan wrote:
If this is going to be a once in a life time shot and you only need a small number (six or fewer)... How about some begging?

Anybody out there willing to do the drilling for John? Postage both ways can't cost much. The job would take less time than packaging the stuff up for shipping.

I don't own a drill press or a lathe; otherwise I'd be happy to do it.

It's been a good conversation. When taxes come in, I might head over to Harbor Freight...


This is a kind suggestion. But I would prefer to do it myself. It is a simple job but I suspected that clever people who do far more woodworking than I do would have sound advice. And they did.

This is definitely a case of the doing being just as important as the having.

John
The blood-dimmed tide is loosed, and everywhere
The ceremony of innocence is drowned;
The best lack all conviction, while the worst
Are full of passionate intensity.--Yeats
MickeyPainless
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Leland,
I think every farrier I know has one of those drill presses on his rig! I have a slightly bigger Harbor Freight model that has stood the test of time a MUCH abuse for well over 15 years in my shop!
Magnus Eisengrim
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I got myself a small press and followed Thomas's suggestion. The holes are slightly imperfect, but more perfect than was necessary. And I have a tool that I should have bought years ago. And even with the cost of the press, the prop will cost less than if I bought it commercially.

Thanks for the advice and the interesting and lively discussion.

John
The blood-dimmed tide is loosed, and everywhere
The ceremony of innocence is drowned;
The best lack all conviction, while the worst
Are full of passionate intensity.--Yeats
thegreatnippulini
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John, that drill press will provide you with not only years upon years of use, but will also present itself as a solution to many unseen problems for you in the future. Best of luck!
The Great Nippulini: body piercer, Guinness World Record holder, blacksmith and man with The World's Strongest Nipples! Does the WORLD care? We shall see...
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Michael Baker
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Congrats on your new purchase... as if one needs a reason to buy new tools (tip of the topper to Leland!).

Now that John's problem has been solved, I'll ask a question that I've been holding back, so as not to hijack his thread.

What is the best way to drill a very small diameter (1/16" or less), off-center hole into wooden ball? The wish is to make a loop ball, so ideally, the bore should be quite near the edge of the ball The problems discovered, thus far:

1) The bit must enter the wood at an extremely sharp angle, and is therefore prone to skipping off the surface of the wood, to the point of actually bending, which makes it highly likely to break.

2) Chucking the bit deeper stiffens the bit by exposing less of it, but because small diameter bits are typically shorter by nature, it then becomes too short to make the full depth of the bore needed.

Thoughts?
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ClintonMagus
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I have done this by center-punching a small dimple into the ball, just enough for the drill bit to "catch". I also run the drill press at a high speed, only long enough to get the hole started, then back off on the speed and complete the hole.

Did you go see John Calvert?
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Michael Baker
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Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a shot.

Yes, I did see John Calvert last night. He is one of my heros. Smile
~michael baker
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jay leslie
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Michael
The way the old timers drilled silver coins was from two angles and the boars would cross. In this proceedure a flat bit made a small flat surface which the drill could start without travel. A punch can work but allows the tip of the bit to travel. Especially with a small hole, deflection is our enemy.

Jim Swoger sold the rights to Poof Ball to Sammy Smith. They were using hollow plastic balls. A lighter ball will travel better then a heavy ball as a heavy ball stops with more force and may break a thread. The option is to use a heaver thread, I'd prefer to use a lighter ball/thread.

The moves can be found written up as the "Will of the wisp ball". Another fine resource (plug) would be Miracle Money. which uses the same moves and a few others. The exception is a hank ball, which is usually hollow metal and turns into a hank, at the end.
Michael Baker
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Thanks for the info, Jay.
~michael baker
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thegreatnippulini
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Quote:
On 2009-02-20 18:36, Thomas Wayne wrote:
(PS: Never, never, never wear gloves when operating stationary power tools. The slight (nearly imaginary) "protection" that a layer of canvas or leather offers is horrifically offset by the catastrophe that awaits you if a blade or cutter head catches the glove and drags your hand into it.)


Okay, I just HAVE to say this is totally wrong. I JUST finished making a stool for my dad. I use a 4-1/2" cutoff disc in an angle grinder for cuts in thin to moderately thick sheet steel. My grip on the tool slipped and it sliced right into my left thumb. Fortunately I did not take TW's advice and always wear protection ANY time I use a power tool, so the disc cut through the leather of the glove and barely nicked my knuckle of the thumb. Had I not been wearing PPE I would have lost my thumb and been in a hospital at this very moment (using the spacebar would be futile). Before even think of stepping foot into my workshop I don my PPE... my PPE (personal protective equipment) includes my "greenies" welding jacket and pants, work gloves, OSHA approved protective eyewear, auto darkening welders helmet, steel toed boots and a good knowledge of my equipment and where all emergency shut off switches are located. Telling people to "not use gloves on power tools" is like the NHSA advising against wearing seatbelts (which saved MY life last year when I got T-boned by a drunk driver).
The Great Nippulini: body piercer, Guinness World Record holder, blacksmith and man with The World's Strongest Nipples! Does the WORLD care? We shall see...
http://www.greatnippulini.com
EsnRedshirt
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I do use carpenter's gloves, which leave the thumb and first two fingers open- it allows me to still feel what I'm working on, but protects from splinters. The gloves are also tight-fitting, to prevent loose cloth from getting caught in any powertools.

I think the key is to make sure you use the right protective gear for the job. Gardening gloves are a poor, loose fit, and if those are your "protective gloves", then Thomas is right- you'd be better off without gloves than with.

I can't imagine what my hands would look like if I tried to do metalworking without a pair of heavy leather welding gloves, either. Ouch!
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MickeyPainless
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I tried using gloves once when working with some very rough barn wood and it just feels odd to me! Kinda like showering with a raincoat if ya know what I mean! I do try to remember to wear thin latex gloves when staining and finishing though!
Michael Baker
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Quote:
On 2009-03-09 19:29, MickeyPainless wrote:
I tried using gloves once when working with some very rough barn wood and it just feels odd to me! Kinda like showering with a raincoat if ya know what I mean! I do try to remember to wear thin latex gloves when staining and finishing though!


Kinda like showering with a better raincoat?? Smile
~michael baker
The Magic Company